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Chengdu, Qingdao or drawing board?
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bacalao



Joined: 04 Aug 2013
Posts: 6

PostPosted: Wed Aug 14, 2013 12:57 pm    Post subject: Chengdu, Qingdao or drawing board? Reply with quote

Hi all,

I've done plenty of prep lurk already, but I believe all of you when you say things change fast in China, so I thought I would throw a line out for some current opinions.

I've just received an offer in Chengdu. It's at a mill, 8,000 rmb plus 1,000 rmb housing allowance, for 25 teaching hours and 15 aquarium diorama hours. I know the mentors here tend to sneer at that sort of arrangement, and I have plenty of doubts myself, but before I even start on any negotiations or existential compromises, I have a more fundamental doubt to deal with about whether I should go to Chengdu at all.

I got pretty set on Chengdu. From what I can tell online, its size and character, and its balance of new development and historical undertow, would suit me well. But as I started to understand that the air quality there is about as bad as it gets for a second-tier city and only getting worse, I started to have second thoughts.

My instinct is to go in with a who-cares, how-bad-could-it-be attitude, but I know that my concept of air pollution's potential to tangibly ruin my day may not be calibrated for China.

So with Chengdu's one giant drawback in mind, I started my job search again with relatively ok air quality as the top priority. That brought me to Qingdao, which seems like another very interesting city, with its own character, and less disincentives to breathe. But somehow Qingdao attracts my imagination a little less than Chengdu. From my wholly unscientific first impression, it feels safer, tamer, less one of China's strange vital organs than Chengdu. On the other hand, I'm also concerned I may be falling prey to an advertised romantic notion of Chengdu that won't have much relation to the reality there. And I'm sure Qingdao would blow my mind plenty.

So I'm asking for any weigh-ins, counterpoints or relevant info at all. People in either place now? People who have spent time in both? Year-later job prospects in either place? Cost of living? Vibrancy of cultural scene, actual inhabitants? Or tell me to shut up and decide on my own, which I am considering doing, along with maybe just travelling to some cities first so I can get some firsthand knowledge.

My stats: I'm a mid20s newbie, never been to China, don't speak but would like to learn Mandarin, don't want to to get comfy with a circle of westerners or be unduly tempted to, but won't mind a couple commiseraters/conspirators at times, like cities that have a coherent temperament, a place I can form an idea of in my head (auckland, phoenix fail; dunedin, tucson, nyc, charlottesville pass), not as important what the idea is
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muffintop



Joined: 07 Jan 2013
Posts: 803

PostPosted: Wed Aug 14, 2013 1:39 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Do you have an offer in Qingdao? If so, please provide details. Frankly if you are interested in both cities, let the best job offer decide for you.

I have never been to Chengdu but have lived in Qingdao for over 3 years. It's a pretty good city to live in if you can stand the humidity all year. In summer it feels hotter than it is and in winter it will chill you to the bone though the temp may not be very low.

As most other cities in China (I believe) Qingdao is rather spread out. You'll have a totally different vibe from district to district. Shibei, Shinan, Huangdao, Licang, Chenyang, Laoshan, Jimo.....some of these are pretty far from what I would consider the city. If you don't mind being a bit out of the main city, Huangdao is quiet and clean (in comparison) and the beaches are better. Shinan is the main part of the city I guess where you'll easily find foreign goods and beaches chock full of tourists. Things tend to be on the expensive side here. Shibei is where I live and it's really ideal for me right now. I live in what's called Taidong. Shopping and eating are inexpensive and there is no shortage of either. Night BBQ's are all over the place for all but the coldest months. It's a bit on the crowded (and dirty) side but it's more or less centrally located to everything in the city. Public transportation in and out of taidong is excellent.

Cost of living is...reasonable if you know where to shop. Avoid the touristy areas, shop where the locals do.

Summer brings in tourists by the boatload and it will be often difficult to find taxis or restaurants with an open table. After you spend some time here and know more than the tourists do you'll be fine. They tend to flock to the same places and it's relatively easy to avoid the herds.

As far as culture is concerned...Qingdao has some history and you'll find German architecture in some parts of the city. Pretty easy to spot....they are just about the only buildings more than 40 years old that have not collapsed. Outside of that there is...beer in a bag. Beer really is Qingdao's 'thing'.....that and seafood.
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mw182006



Joined: 10 Dec 2012
Posts: 310

PostPosted: Wed Aug 14, 2013 1:46 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Welcome. You're going to get a wide range of responses, including a possible troll or two. I am preparing to move to Chengdu myself as a first timer, so I can't offer anything as far as personal experience. If you haven't stumbled on it already, I can point you to chengduliving.com which is a nice little site run by some expats there. Here's an article they put out on pollution specifically, and at one point someone was posting daily pictures of the air quality in the forum.

http://www.chengduliving.com/chengdu-pollution-tips/

I'll be living about 10 minutes outside of the city, so I'm hoping that's going to cut down on my exposure a bit.
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Javelin of Radiance



Joined: 01 Jul 2009
Posts: 1187
Location: The West

PostPosted: Wed Aug 14, 2013 1:46 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

muffintop wrote:
Summer brings in tourists by the boatload and it will be often difficult to find taxis or restaurants with an open table. After you spend some time here and know more than the tourists do you'll be fine. They tend to flock to the same places and it's relatively easy to avoid the herds.

Moooo, yeah time to cull the herd !

Can't go wrong in Chengdu. Best thing about the place is the food, which is (my opinion anyway) the best in China. Plus some of the most scenic spots in China are in Sichuan. While most tourists can only get to them on major holidays you'd be close enough to most of them for a long weekend trip. That's enough to recommend the city to most people I think.
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muffintop



Joined: 07 Jan 2013
Posts: 803

PostPosted: Wed Aug 14, 2013 2:08 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Javelin of Radiance wrote:

Moooo, yeah time to cull the herd !


Dude, you have no idea. I cringe when I see tourists now. They are easy to spot. I've been here long enough that I'm pretty much used to Qingdaoren. Tourists...are just a little absurd in varying ways. Sometimes hilarious, sometimes aggravating. Every time I see a person holding a flag and bullhorn I run the other way. Chinese in general are not known for their manners or etiquette...throw a bunch of folks from some village in pigscrew nowhere into a city known for beer and......yeah.

If you are single or act like you are single this is a really good city though. So many people from other places without mommy and daddy watching over their shoulders. If you can't find a date for almost every night of the week in Qingdao you may have issues.
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chinatimes



Joined: 27 May 2012
Posts: 478

PostPosted: Wed Aug 14, 2013 2:40 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Quote:
So I'm asking for any weigh-ins, counterpoints or relevant info at all.


China is a big country. In Korea it's possible to live in Busan and spend the weekend in Seoul. To do this in China as easily would probably need a flight.

If you want to travel around while you are in China get out a map and look at locations. Qingdao is a "corner city". The first big city you can get to from there is Jinan. I am guessing 2 hours by fast train.

http://www.chinatrainguide.com/jinan-railway-station/qingdao.html

They say 2.5 at best with the G185 train. Other times go to 4-5 hours.

So if you travel, you can't make day trips. I decided to go up north instead. I am in Tangshan now and can take a train to Beijing that takes 1 hour and 9 minutes or a bus which is 2 hours. This means I can go in the morning and return same day at night if I don't want to spend the night. If you are in a corner city you are faced with the problem of having to spend the night. It's not a problem if you plan ahead and pack, but I too often leave something behind at home and prefer to just return same day.

From Tangshan, for the longer journeys, I can go to Qinhuangdao, take a boat to Dalian and Qingdao or take a train up to Shenyang, Changchun, or Harbin.

So, in conclusion, you would need to be like a Boston person or a coastal person to want to Qingdao it. Otherwise, you will be cornered in. Regardless how nice it is, you will probably want to get out.

I am not as equipped to comment on Chengdu, but I would do the same and look at a map and train routes. It's also a corner city much further away from other cities. Now you are cornered in on the west side. Second observation, it is the same latitude as Shanghai. The weather will be a lot warmer. Do you prefer this?

The closest major city would be Chongqing, is this something you might want to branch off to later on? I have never been to the west and I can't say anything bad about it but I don't see how transportation would be fun in all that heat.

The train hours range from 2 hours to 10.5 hours.

http://www.chinatrainguide.com/chongqing-railway-station/chengdu.html

If you take the safer 2.5 hour ones in the evening you will be looking at spending the night definitely. This isn't bad, but you will need to pack your suitcase, it won't be a day trip.

Personally, I would go to Chongqing instead, that way I could visit Chengdu and it looks like you could visit places like Xian in less time.
http://www.chinatrainguide.com/chongqing-railway-station/xian.html
http://www.chinatrainguide.com/chengdu-railway-station/xian.html

Looks like 11 hours from Chongqing and 15 from Chengdu.

Also, look at the subway maps, Chengdu has 2 lines, Chongqing has 4 lines. I am looking at a map of China through the Baidu map service, so I don't know if new lines have been built or if all 4 are functioning, but from a glance I would say Chongqing would be a better city to go to in the west.
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muffintop



Joined: 07 Jan 2013
Posts: 803

PostPosted: Wed Aug 14, 2013 3:07 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

chinatimes wrote:

So if you travel, you can't make day trips.,,,

So, in conclusion, you would need to be like a Boston person or a coastal person to want to Qingdao it. Otherwise, you will be cornered in. Regardless how nice it is, you will probably want to get out.

I am not as equipped to comment on Chengdu, but ...


You seem ill equipped to comment on Qingdao too. Why would anyone want to go from one big city to another on a day trip? I guess if you live near SH and you want to purchase things it would make sense...otherwise I just don't see it. In my mind day trips are to escape a city if you live in one or to go to a city if you don't. There are plenty of places to visit within Qingdao and within Shandong province. From Qingdao you can also hop on a boat and go to Korea or Japan as well.

3.5 years here...never felt 'cornered in'.

chinatimes wrote:

China is a big country. In Korea it's possible to live in Busan and spend the weekend in Seoul. To do this in China as easily would probably need a flight.


What the hell does this even mean? Let's say Busan and Seoul were in China and not Korea for sake of argument. Would the distance between the 2 cities suddenly change or something? What an idiotic thing to say. Your whole point is supposed to be what? If two cities are close together you can travel between them easily? Brilliant observation. Truly an earth shattering revelation.
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Javelin of Radiance



Joined: 01 Jul 2009
Posts: 1187
Location: The West

PostPosted: Wed Aug 14, 2013 3:26 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

chinatimes wrote:
I am not as equipped to comment on Chengdu, but I would do the same and look at a map and train routes. It's also a corner city much further away from other cities. Now you are cornered in on the west side. Second observation, it is the same latitude as Shanghai. The weather will be a lot warmer. Do you prefer this?

The closest major city would be Chongqing, is this something you might want to branch off to later on? I have never been to the west and I can't say anything bad about it but I don't see how transportation would be fun in all that heat.

People don't choose a city to live in based on which other cities it's close to. They choose a city because of what it and the surrounding area have to offer. Aside from the excellent food, on a three day weekend from Chengdu you can visit Kangding, Jiuzhaigou, Huanglong, panda reserves and a few other interesting places. As for Chongqing, I'm guessing you've never been there. The place is a monstrosity of a city, it's very hilly making it not so fun to get around, it's a migrant city and is reportedly (not my experience though) less foreigner friendly, and the place is unbearably hot in summer. Getting from one city to another here is easy, hop a flight. If you're outside peak holiday season flights are cheap, just slightly more than train tickets to the same destination in many cases.


Last edited by Javelin of Radiance on Wed Aug 14, 2013 3:36 pm; edited 1 time in total
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chinatimes



Joined: 27 May 2012
Posts: 478

PostPosted: Wed Aug 14, 2013 3:36 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Quote:
Why would anyone want to go from one big city to another on a day trip?


If you get an early fast train, you can spend the day. I typically work 5 days a week, so I like 1 day to unwind and that leaves 1 day on Sunday to do my visiting until I work the next day.

In Korea, I used to camp out at a "PC bang" also called "wang ba" and then come back later the following day to avoid expensive hotel costs. Hostels are an option, about 80 RMB in Beijing at the cheapest rate. I don't know about other cities.

Quote:
From Qingdao you can also hop on a boat and go to Korea or Japan as well.


I was working off the premise that you would move to China and stay within China. If you are going to other countries, then you could just go to the airport and it wouldn't matter which city you were in.

Quote:
3.5 years here...never felt 'cornered in'.


You are taking this too personal. I said corner city, NOT "cornered in" which conveys a negative connotation. A corner city is not bad, it neither connotes good or evil.

I spent 3.5 years in Kyoto Japan and I don't regret it either, but on the other hand I never traveled. I am simply showing the options. Trains are the best for transportation in my opinion. Buses come second because the stress level is lower than flying. If you have the money and don't mind all that waiting and delays before a flight then you can go anywhere.

Quote:
What the hell does this even mean?


The meaning is that you can't experience China as a whole like you can with Korea. I would ping pong from Andong to Seoul to Pyeongtaek and return to a smaller city near Andong over a weekend. I could visit my ex-korean girlfriend on the other side of the country and be back in the afternoon Monday to teach my classes. You can't do that in China. You can't take a bus from Harbin to Chengdu. That was the point. China is a HUGE COUNTRY!!!!

Quote:
Would the distance between the 2 cities suddenly change or something?


Well, the point was to pick two major cities in Korea and show how easy it is to travel between them compared to two major cities in China. I was not suggesting you LITERALLY take Busan and Seoul and transport them to China. In this case, you could compare Shanghai with Beijing or Shenzhen with either Beijing or Shanghai. I left it up to the reader to decide because the conclusion would be the same. China is a HUGE COUNTRY!!!!

Quote:
Your whole point is supposed to be what?


China is a huge country and that we should take other factors into account than just sedentary opinions (which I feel you have too much of to appreciate the nomadic suggestions I am presenting)

Quote:
If two cities are close together you can travel between them easily? Brilliant observation. Truly an earth shattering revelation.


But we don't realize this when we move to China. We don't realize the waiting games Chinese people play and the train schedules. In Korea you can get a train ticket and get to where you want to go 5 hours tops. In China, you might have a 8 hour train ride because you were late getting the D train to where you wanted to go. Now you have to wait 3 hours and take a later train which gets you there 11 hours total later.

We must plan ahead more when we live in China. I think you spent most of your time in Qingdao and don't realize this.


Last edited by chinatimes on Wed Aug 14, 2013 3:55 pm; edited 1 time in total
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chinatimes



Joined: 27 May 2012
Posts: 478

PostPosted: Wed Aug 14, 2013 3:47 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Quote:
People don't choose a city to live in based on which other cities it's close to.


I do, I didn't choose Tangshan because I have an obsession with earthquakes. A recruiter introduced me to Qinhuangdao. I thought it would be a good city to live in if I wanted to go up north and see the ice sculptures in Harbin. I don't want to live in Harbin for 1 year, but I would like to visit in winter. During other months I can visit Dalian and Qingdao. I don't have to live in those cities. I can pivot from another city.

While waiting on a Tianjin offer, this Tangshan offer came up and I figured why not? It's an hour to both Beijing and Tianjin on the west and probably the same to Qinhuangdao.

If you want to stay in one city and not leave it, then ignore what I am saying. I am speaking from experience after 10 years of living in Asia. I have already done the 4 year living in one city experience. I have done the 1 year stints in various cities. Now, I want a city I can ping pong off of and still have a job. I am not looking for a home city so to speak. I don't need to be pampered in the village. I can go out and visit other cities and return. No problem.

Quote:
Getting from one city to another here is easy, hop a flight.


Right, that is my disclaimer. If you want to fly, then you can go anywhere. It doesn't matter. I prefer trains. So, I look at train routes. I was only reporting the facts, not saying people should take the train. If you prefer flying then your problem is solved as far as transportation is concerned.
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choudoufu



Joined: 25 May 2010
Posts: 3325
Location: Mao-berry, PRC

PostPosted: Wed Aug 14, 2013 4:08 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

yo, bro, pick a city, any city. both should be fine for the first year.
plenty of things to keep you occupied without the need to ping-pang
between major cities.

but which one? how do the contracts compare? i'm betting 1000 housing
allowance won't go too far in chengdu any more. 5 years ago maybe, not
no longer.

see expat mag for chengdu --> www.gochengdoo.com
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chinatimes



Joined: 27 May 2012
Posts: 478

PostPosted: Wed Aug 14, 2013 5:00 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Out of humor, you can take a train from Harbin to Chongqing, but I can't find one to Chengdu.

http://www.chinatrainguide.com/chongqing-railway-station/stntostn.php

It's almost 1,000 RMB / 47h32m Laughing
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roadwalker



Joined: 24 Aug 2005
Posts: 1750
Location: Ch

PostPosted: Wed Aug 14, 2013 6:03 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Choose the better job. Everywhere has at least a minor attraction to get away to, but you'll be spending more time in the school/office/campus so find one you might be happy with on a daily basis.

With that in mind, I do prefer jobs in places that are relatively near other places that I would enjoy spending time in. Qingdao would be good for beach people and Chengdu for mountain people, in terms of getting away from cities. Shandong also has mountains if you like both. My personal preference is a smaller city near one or more bigger cities for the few times I want to experience a bigger city, as opposed to living in one.
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Non Sequitur



Joined: 23 May 2010
Posts: 4724
Location: China

PostPosted: Wed Aug 14, 2013 7:41 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Let the job offer decide but hey isn't this a little late in the piece to be wavering?
At first sight the Chengdu offer seems 'light' but the other bits and pieces may square it away.
I had a year in Qingdao and enjoyed it.
If you're near the beach the afternoon sea breeze makes things bearable in summer. Inland it can be oppressive.
In winter you can rug up - quilted jacket and long johns plus headgear should see you right.
Having had the Olympic sailing there the natives feel quite international in outlook.
There is an active expat association.
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chinatimes



Joined: 27 May 2012
Posts: 478

PostPosted: Thu Aug 15, 2013 3:45 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Quote:
isn't this a little late in the piece to be wavering?


Not at all, I was looking for a job from May to August. I went to a new school in June, was told by other teachers to not take the job and left after a week. I spent the end of June until about end of July trying to find jobs, but recruiters only wanted me to take summer camp positions they couldn't fill or the schools were on holiday. So, I waited and waited and no response.

Now that Chinese teachers are back from holiday, recruiters are contacting me about jobs I applied for back in May. When I tell them I already got a job, they say, "Why didn't you tell us?" or "Did you sign the contract yet?"

This is a perfect time to transfer to another school because Chinese schools work based on a fixed schedule. When it is holiday, they don't think about the upcoming September jobs. They wait until August and then they take whoever is available. I literally don't have a job offer I can't take now that I wanted before. It's Thursday and recruiters are still contacting me. The last time I replied to an ad was 2.5 weeks ago.

Get on Skype, get those recruiters added, they usually advertise their Skype ID names on echinacities. Contact them directly. Show them offers you like and don't back down when negotiating. When you are asked to talk with the school, you might need to get a QQ account.

One school wanted me to pay rent, and now that they know I am with another school they want me to leave and they will pay rent Laughing

I told them, "If you were willing to give me housing from the beginning I would have gone with you, but I am not going to pick up and leave this school that has been honest with me so far and gave me a place to move into immediately."

They will try to get as much out of you as they can. Don't be afraid to say no to a good offer with a few crucial sore spots like this. These recruiters will eventually come to their senses.

You need:

housing, reasonable salary, a schedule of what classes you are to teach (should be easier now because September is right around the corner), resources you can use

And the big one, the contract. Don't play into their trap that you can't see the contract until the interview. Get it emailed so you can look at it. If the contract is bad, there is no need to go to an interview. You don't need to meet with the recruiter for an interview first. You don't need to do a demo video for the recruiter first. This is only for the recruiter's benefit. Also, do not pay commission to the recruiter.

Get an idea of the city you will move to, look at train stations on a map compared to where the school is http://map.baidu.com or use Google maps. Are there subway stations? What bus routes are in that area? You can get the bus numbers from the school and look them up at http://www.8684.cn/


Last edited by chinatimes on Thu Aug 15, 2013 4:07 am; edited 1 time in total
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