Job Discussion Forums

[CPUESL]

I just accepted a job offer with GABA to start a one year contract in Tokyo in June. I'm a tall guy and would like to get my suits for the year made in Shanghai during my 72 hour stopover on the way there. The problem is, I know practically nothing about suits. I have a vague understanding that there is a seasonal culture of suits in Japan, that people switch attire on the same day to mark new seasons. Can anyone point me to some type of online guide that advises what to buy (materials, style, fit, etc) for each season, and how many shirts/ties/jackets/pants I should have to cover me for a year?

[HLJHLJ]

You need a black suit, long sleeved white shirts and tie for GABA. In the summer (approx mid/end May to the end of September) they follow Cool Biz so you can take your jacket off, wear short sleeved shirts and don't need a tie for regular lessons (if you opt to take sales lessons, etc you will still have to wear the full kit).

You might want to get something lighter weight for summer, and heavier ones for winter. Or just get medium weight right through. Either way, get machine washable trousers. You don't want to be constantly paying for dry cleaning.

Beyond that there is really no need to have multiple styles.

Find a tailor that keeps your information and ships internationally so you can reorder if you need to.

[CPUESL]

Thanks for the help, didn't even know about Cool Biz! So planning for a year at GABA, does this list seem reasonable?

1 Black Suit Jacket (Medium-Weight)
4 Trousers (3 Black, 1 gray for Cool Biz?)
5 Long Sleeve White Shirts
3 Short Sleeve White Shirts (Cool Biz)
5 Ties
2 Pairs Dress Shoes

Also, what is considered medium-weight? 100% Cotton?

[HLJHLJ]

I think if you tell a tailor you want something medium weight and machine washable, they will be able to recommend a fabric, but yes, it will probably be 100% cotton.

All the trousers need to be black. Although officially they say 'dark' and they will tolerate deep navy blue or very dark grey, they really want black, so it's easier just to stick with that.

It's hard for me to judge how many of each you need. How often do you want to do laundry? Bearing in mind that tumble dryers are pretty rare.

In the summer it's incredibly hot and sticky. Cool Biz is a government scheme to reduce electricity consumption, so companies agree to adopt a Cool Biz dress code, but the air-con is kept at 28C. But really it's the humidity that's the killer, and you can only wear a shirt once (and in peak summer, I would sometimes change into a clean shirt at midday, but I'm female, and perhaps a bit more fussy). I also used to change into my work shirt at work. I always looked pretty disheveled after being crushed up against a train full of people literally dripping sweat on me on the way in. And I wore white t-shirts/vests under shirts, in the summer they absorb the sweat so the shirt stays nicer, and in the winter they help against the cold.

So I would hazard a guess you'd need 5+ short sleeved shirts, but hopefully a guy will be along with better information.

[Pitarou]

First, your suit should be dark.

Apart from that, it depends on entirely on which part of Japan you're in. But if you're near Tokyo, you have one overriding concern: the heat.

Temperatures climb well into the 30s, and it gets very humid. Air-conditioners are typically set to 28 C which, for me, is the limit of what I can tolerate while working. And you still have to cope with the commute. So get a light-suit. If you buy a suit in Japan, you may find that the back is unlined -- partly to keep the cost down, but mainly because it's cooler.

Another tip: I found that I had to scrub my shirts' armpits before washing. The heat and humidity generated oily residues that were never an issue back in the UK.

Winters don't get very cold -- snow is rare -- so for winter just get some warm underwear.

One final thing to be aware of: sleeves tend to be a little short here. I have a photo of me with a member of the Japanese royal family that I can't use, because I was wearing a western shirt with a Japanese suit jacket, and the combination looked ridiculous.

[CPUESL]

Thanks for the help. I have a few more follow up questions now:

1) My suit jacket here is 70% polyester/30% wool. And it is lined. I assume this would be too heavy for the summer?

2) I am tall and have long arms. Should I definitely buy my suit jacket outside of Japan to avoid the "royal family" problem then?

3)I'd prefer to do my laundry just once a week. Do share houses and studios typically have washing machines, or is it normal to have to use laundromats?

4) If you changed into your work shirt at work, what did you wear on the subway? Yesterday's work shirt? =P

[HLJHLJ]

1) Definitely too heavy for summer, but then you won't need it in summer anyway because of Cool Biz.

2) You might struggle to buy anything in Japan, or be restricted to over priced and under stocked specialty stores. Better to bring stuff with you.

3) You will almost certainly have a washing machine, but almost certainly won't have a dryer. Laundromats are relatively rare, but dry cleaners are everywhere. If you only want to do laundry once a week, you need at least 5 or 6 shirts.

4) I'd go in a t-shirt or cotton top. It'll make more sense once you've done a Tokyo commute in summer.

[move]

I don't know Gaba's requirements, but I will just talk in general about business attire. You didn't say how tall you are but I am 177cm and finding suits isn't a problem. Shoes on the other hand... Suits are quite reasonable here, but the quality varies. It all depends on your budget.

Stick with black or a dark grey for your suits, a slight pinstripe is acceptable. Navy less common but ok, if it's too light then you will look like a security guard. Don't buy any weird colors like brown or green.

Light colors are the way to go for shirts. Most people wear white or light blue, light purple, etc. A bit of a pattern is okay.

Finding shoes over 28cm is tough, but there is Rakuten or other online retailers, but naturally you can't try them on. There are also Big and Tall stores in Tokyo, just do a search. Do yourself a favor and buy some loafers instead of Oxfords.

[Pitarou]

HLJHLJ is right that you probably won't need to wear the suit jacket for your regular work in summer, but I can think of plenty of other occasions where you might be expected to wear it.

So if your situation is anything like mine (living near Tokyo and not thoroughly acclimatised to heat and humidity) I advise you to get a light jacket. You'll thank me next time you have to attend a job interview, or a wedding, or a funeral, or you find an employer that's better than GABA in every way except for the summer dress code, or ...

[CPUESL]

1) I am 194cm tall. Do 'Big and Tall' stores sell shirts/jackets with arms that would be long enough to fit me?

2) If I get a light jacket, will this be warm enough for commuting in the winter?

3) Or is it acceptable to wear my dark gray trench coat over the suit jacket in the winter?

4) For GABA I assume I won't need to remove my shoes very often. Why do you recommend loafers? Will there be many other situations when I'm in a suit and I need to remove my shoes?

[Pitarou]

[HLJHLJ]

As Pitarou says, you can wear a coat to/from work, but not in class.

In GABA you won't have to take your shoes off at work, but everywhere else you'll be taking them on and off all the time.

You will probably be able to buy suits that sort of fit you in Big & Tall type shops, but they will be shockingly over priced for what you get, with little choice and usually with the Japanese style shorter sleeves. If you can get stuff made on the way over, do it.

You could also consider a waistcoat as an extra layer when it's cold.

[Vince]