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Sheep-Goats
Joined: 16 Apr 2004 Posts: 527
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Posted: Mon Mar 07, 2005 8:13 am Post subject: |
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I know a sentence long comment won't draw much attention at the bottom of a one page long thread -- but IF YOUR FIRST JOB IN CHINA ISN'T IN A BIG, FAIRLY WESTERNIZED CITY YOU'LL BE ABSOLUTELY MISERABLE.
Start in Beijing or Shanghai. Once you have some Mandarin, and if your interest in China still holds up, move on out to a province. Remember, "real" China is absolutely dirt cheap and if you want to experience it you can do so pretty easily on a vacation from Shanhai -- or take a six month trip through there after spending a year working in Taiwan or Hong Kong. You wouldn't move to Bubleturd, Kansas if you've never been there before, would you?
Provincial cities are often unbeliveably boring, xenophobic, unsanitary (expect non-solid bowels more often than solid ones), and cloistered. Scaring up a girlfriend may be impossible. Rural China is as far from what you're used to as anywhere in the world (including the South Pole, in different ways) and you really don't want to just leap into that. |
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Talkdoc
Joined: 03 Mar 2004 Posts: 696
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Posted: Mon Mar 07, 2005 8:16 am Post subject: Re: Interesting cities in which to live and work |
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| coolrcdad wrote: |
| With so many choices in such a large country, I'd appreciate feedback from experienced teach-in-China members about the cities they are working in or have worked in. |
Unlike some, I've lived and worked in only two cities in China, in the year-and-a-half that I have been in the country: Shenyang and Haikou.
Shenyang is a very cold and industrialized, polluted city in the northeast of China within Liaoning province. By cold, I mean the ground is frozen solid for about four-and-a-half months straight and when the wind is strong, it feels as if your chest is being crushed. With that said, there is one forum member in particular, a Canadian gentleman by the name of 'Shenyang Jerry" who likes working in Shenyang and is not dissuaded by the cold; he returns every six months for one semester.
I am living in Haikou now and, for me at least, it has everything I could want and it suits me well. The weather here is relatively warm in the winter and I live about 20 minutes from a decent beach that I visit often. Our illustrious Roger once referred to Haikou as a "dump" (I'm not sure if he worked here, was just passing through as a backpacker or where Jupiter was in relation to Mars at the time he visited) but I think the words "rustic" or "rural" would far better describe it. If you are looking for a big, international city with Wal-Marts and Carrefours, or a place to learn "pure" Mandarin, Haikou would leave you dissatisfied but if you are someone who appreciates the laid-back style of the Islanders and quaint Palm-treed surroundings, then I think you would love it here; I know that I do.
The other thing I would add and that I would ask you to consider is that location alone does not completely define your "China experience." If you happen to love your location but you are miserable at work, the benefits of any one particular city may not matter all that much to you in the final analysis. Conversely, if I had been happy with my last employer (i.e., if I had felt valued and appreciated), I think there is a good chance I would have stayed in Shenyang, as I was getting used to the place, was beginning to really know my way around and was making friends and contacts. There are some foreigners in Shenyang who have lived and worked there "relatively comfortably" for several years. It is true what they say: "Home is where the heart is" and it's extremely difficult to commit your heart (yourself) to any one city, no matter how intrinsically wonderful it might be, if you are miserable and feeling abused for 20 some-odd hours per week. It is true that I love living in Haikou but it is equally true that I love my job and, in China, those two experiences are very difficult to separate (at least for me it is).
Doc |
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tofuman
Joined: 02 Jul 2004 Posts: 937
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Posted: Mon Mar 07, 2005 9:56 am Post subject: |
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Doc,
I certainly agree with what you just said. I came here planning to spend at least five years at this school but expect to leave when my contract expires at the end of this term.
The biggest problem for me has been the language barrier. I can not directly communicate with the administration nor 90% of the students. And there is no one that I can really trust to translate or would want to involve because of potential backlash on that person.
I just had a fabulous vacation away from China. It's ironic that I have to get away from the place I came to get away. Fortunately, I am able to objectify my experience to some extent and realize that this is just one backwater, not necessarily representative of China at its best.
I have a good plan for next year, not abandoning China.
You are so right that the job will have a huge impact on the overall experience. If I got validation rather than abuse and marginalization from my employers, I would settle for a lot less and still be happy, but what is the point of casting pearls before swine? Have they never heard of employee retention?
You are someone they might listen to. Have you ever thought of doing seminars for FAOs on how to hire and retain good FTs? |
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Roger
Joined: 19 Jan 2003 Posts: 9138
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Posted: Tue Mar 08, 2005 3:07 am Post subject: |
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| amandabarrick wrote: |
If one were to be looking to work in a city in western China, in your opinion what are some of the best according to the pros the OP is looking for? Chengdu, Guilin, Chongqing, Guiyang, kunming, Mianyang, Nanning? I think Western China would be a much different experience and have incredible countryside.
AB |
Of the cities mentioned here, I personally would pick Chengdu in Sichuan, and give Guilin a second place far behind, and this only because it offers the reward of an easy escape from its grim industrial insides.
Chongqing is more than a city, it is now a municipality that is home to several cities and lots of villages in between, a lot of frenzied construction taking place. So if you get a job offer from "Chongqing" you might end up living way out of an urban spot, somewhere where the geese learn to fly. Chongqing city is compact enough to make it an interesting stopover on a tourist itinerary but I would not want to work there - noisy, polluted and still largely backward.
Mianyang has only recently come on the TEFL map. It is a nondescript place, no name-recognition value to Chinese and zero to tourists.
Outside of Sichuan province: Guiyang and Kunming: see my first post. Weatherwise they are more comfortable than those hot and sweltering Sichuan cities. |
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Roger
Joined: 19 Jan 2003 Posts: 9138
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Posted: Tue Mar 08, 2005 3:14 am Post subject: |
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[quote="millie"]
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And told him that Guangzhou is a 300 Km detour between HK and Fujian.
(Strange map that one)[/color]
[ M[/color] |
I believe I am beginning to remember you, BODY! You are an unforgiving one. The main problem is that you failed to check out my information on the ground or on a reliable map.
I still stand by what I wrote then: anyone travelling from HONG KONG to a FUJIAN COASTAL CITY - Xiamen, Fuzhou, or farther inland: Putian, Sanmin, Quanzhou - would be making an unnecessary detour if they travelled by way of GUANGZHOU, capital of Guangdong. There are direct buses from SHENZHEWN to XIAMEN and farther east that travel along the coastal mtorway. The way north to Guangzhou is around 150 kms; multiply that by 2 to add the extra kms you are covering. |
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millie
Joined: 29 Oct 2003 Posts: 413 Location: HK
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Posted: Tue Mar 08, 2005 4:14 am Post subject: |
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Ah, the return journey too.
Fair enough if that is how you have considered it - although the OB {= Original BODY } was only talking about going from HK to QZ.
Cheers then.
M |
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Roger
Joined: 19 Jan 2003 Posts: 9138
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Posted: Wed Mar 09, 2005 3:00 am Post subject: |
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| millie wrote: |
Ah, the return journey too.
Fair enough if that is how you have considered it - although the OB {= Original BODY } was only talking about going from HK to QZ.
Cheers then.
M |
Exactly, Millie - only you still don't get it: no one in their right mind would go all the way to Guangzhou, then make a virtual U-turn and travel to Quanzhou; buses tend to use the same motorway between Huizhou and Guangzhou in both directions - a distance of over 100 kms. A sane person boards a bus in SHENZHEN and by-passes HUIZHOU en route to XIAMEN/QUANZHOU.
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Roger
Joined: 19 Jan 2003 Posts: 9138
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Posted: Wed Mar 09, 2005 3:19 am Post subject: Re: Interesting cities in which to live and work |
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| Talkdoc wrote: |
| coolrcdad wrote: |
| With so many choices in such a large country, I'd appreciate feedback from experienced teach-in-China members about the cities they are working in or have worked in. |
I am living in Haikou now and, for me at least, it has everything I could want and it suits me well. The weather here is relatively warm in the winter and I live about 20 minutes from a decent beach that I visit often. Our illustrious Roger once referred to Haikou as a "dump" (I'm not sure if he worked here, was just passing through as a backpacker or where Jupiter was in relation to Mars at the time he visited) but I think the words "rustic" or "rural" would far better describe it. ;
Doc |
Your choice does not have to be my choice, Doc; one man's pizza is another man's poison. Please, feel happy in Haikou. "Illustrious" Roger was last there 2 years ago. Not much has changed, apart from the obvious. I agree with you- not everyone would describe Haikou as a 'dump'. I do. Why?
This is because Hainan island is rustically underdeveloped - fine for me as a backpacker but potentially problematic for me as an employee. The big honchos there tend to think Peking is too far to enforce their outlandish laws. Ask around where the local foreign currencies went in 1992, and how many heads rolled over it...
Even today, the island is the stomping-ground of speculators, pleasure-seekers, gamblers - but not of the rich and legitimate businesspeople. No industry except tourism - go to Bo'ao and marvel at that wonderful five-star hotel set up by that tycoon that got the green light from Zhongnanhai to run Asia's "Davos Meetings"...
The railway line has been extended from the mainland to Haikou, and it is planned to be continued all the way to Sanya; problem is - money! Where should it come from?The current trains earn the company RMB 60'000 a year - to repay their debts and to pay their staff for one year...
This doesn't necesarily affect you in a school, but it does, perhaps, affect how schools are run. I simply cannot believe graft is not a vital part of education.
Here is the name card of my illustrious "friend", Steveen H. L. Yuan:Haikou Candy and Milk Factory, Longhua Lu 15, Haikou, 570005. The telephone number at that time had 6 digits...
This guy managed to get an investor's (businessman's) visa for me (his own doing) for me; the "proof" for me as an "investor" was a photograph of the name plaque of a new company headquarters in Xianyang, bearing my name (which I had never allowed him to use) in Chinese (which I at that time couldn't read, hence my ignorance). What I didn't know was that I was thus listed in his company as a foreign investor worth U.S. 6 million.
WHen I visited him in 1993, on a tourist visa but holding his official invitation (for future use or reference), I was shown around his Candy factory - on the outside, not inside. I was strictly forbidden from entering it. It was quiet as on a cemetery...
With good reason... This guy had so botched business the company had gone broke, leaving 700 workers in the lurch, with no future, and possibly no pay, while its bosses were making escape plans to get away to Shaanxi province with money and a new investor to boot.
You tell me why such people get away with such crimes?Well, if they live in Haikou, then the chances are pretty fat. For them. |
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millie
Joined: 29 Oct 2003 Posts: 413 Location: HK
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Posted: Wed Mar 09, 2005 4:34 am Post subject: |
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| Exactly, Millie - only you still don't get it |
Let’s take your current gem from: http://www.eslcafe.com/forums/job/viewtopic.php?t=21356
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| Atheims is the official sanctioned outlook on matters of religious importance, but the individual person is too removed from party politics and rationalisations; they are obedient believers in the official doctrines and tenets |
Yeh, right. Spelling error aside, I still don't get it , that is, the meaning even after reading it 5 times –I must be getting slow.
Oh, you mean a virtual as in “non-real” u-turn as it is not really a U-turn but a 90 degree turn.
Again, I still don't get it
I had of course originally suggested that they take the bus direct from HK to QZ rather than get tangled up in the entire border crossing ordeal and the need to find the bus station in SZ. Not an easy task for a new arrival I would expect.
Well now, imagine the ignorance of Talk-Doc not agreeing that Hainan is a dump – after all it appears from what you have written above that you have you have seen far more the of the place and have a far more intimate knowledge than he has to make such an informed judgment– virtually speaking that is.
So it appears real doesn’t matter so much anymore– virtual is OK – perhaps to some it is even more reliable and authentic.
Unfortunately Roger, spinning these perpetual yarns to feed this virtual personality of yours has now tangled you up in so many ways that you need to resort to foolish personal attacks when some-one points out that you have made another yet slip-up.
Two days ago you said I was peeing everywhere and today I am insane.
I hate to think what the next day will bring but it has to better.
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| I have opinions on places I have actually visited or lived in, and I visited most cities in China |
Anyway, I sure you can think of some snappy retort as you cobble together yet another round of hype and banalities on any one of the almost 700 or so of cities in China that you have virtually visited or worked in.
Lots of folks here do believe in your virtual experiences but many don’t.
Virtual cheers to you.
M |
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Talkdoc
Joined: 03 Mar 2004 Posts: 696
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Posted: Wed Mar 09, 2005 6:40 am Post subject: |
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Roger, when you write �not much as changed in last two years (since your visit) except for the obvious," I don't know you well enough to appreciate what you consider to be obvious.
From what I am told, Sanya and, to a lesser extent, Haikou have undergone considerable development over the past two years. Beijing has been pouring millions of RMB per year into this place (as they are very happy and proud about Sanya being home, two years in a row, to the Miss World Beauty Pageant).
Many of the streets here are relatively narrow and lined with trees that form a canopy over the middle of a street and I happen to love the look and feel of that. I certainly prefer that to the treeless, over-developed, cold, lifeless appearance of industrialized Shenyang. And, yes, we don�t have much industry aside from tourism and the best-tasting tropical fruits in China but, consequently, we have the cleanest air and environment.
Haikou doesn't have a Wal-Mart or a Carrefour and the Chinese tell me that medical care here is relatively poor compared to the rest of the mainland, but I am very comfortable in this community. I really don't need anything from the Western stores that I can't buy in the local ones (although I do miss paper toweling � but I recently found a local restaurant distributor and I am, once again, up to my neck in Cheddar, Gouda, Edam and Blue cheese). I am not a big city kind of guy; my home in South Florida was ten minutes away from the beach in a nice but fairly rustic part of town - it's what I feel comfortable with although I agree many might not. One of the advantages to living in an island community is that everything is very laid back and informal and that suits me just fine (I mentioned once before in another thread how some of the locals walk around the streets in their pajamas - I think that's cool and, for the first time in my life, I am actually well-dressed by comparison). As for all this terrible corruption and graft you referred to: assuming that everything you said is true, I really don't see how any of that would affect me or any other foreign teacher. The university is run relatively well from what I can tell as a faculty member here and that's all I really care about. I don't know what laws from Peking you believe Hainan Island has chosen to ignore but how does that affect any of us as foreign teachers? (And why would that lead you to refer to the community as a �dump?� I could understand �corrupt,� but why �dump?�)
The one thing you may not be aware of, and something that does affect all of us personally, is that the leaders of Hainan province are particularly and openly grateful to their foreigners and there is an explicit standing policy that we are to be treated well at all times and it is regularly broadcasted as a public service reminder by the Hainan television network (not unlike what Florida has done in regard to its tourists and foreign visitors). If you ever have a dispute in Haikou with a local, all you need to do is ask "Are you trying to cheat a foreigner?" and then mention the PSB and the matter is instantaneously resolved in the foreigner's favor. Short of killing someone, the police have "hands-off" orders where foreigners are concerned (and, admittedly, there are some who shamelessly abuse that privilege, much to my chagrin).
Given the way I have been treated by the university and the community-at-large, I would recommend Haikou to any foreign teacher in a heartbeat (unless you happen to be on the inside track of the multi-million dollar world of big business in China, the way Roger apparently is; then, according to him, you might have occasion to be party to dealings which might prove personally and professionally upsetting to you. If not, then come on down � I�ll see you on the beach ).
Doc |
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Old Dog

Joined: 22 Oct 2004 Posts: 564 Location: China
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Posted: Wed Mar 09, 2005 8:38 am Post subject: Hey, wait a bit |
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Roger wrote:
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WHen I visited him in 1993, on a tourist visa but holding his official invitation (for future use or reference), I was shown around his Candy factory - on the outside, not inside. I was strictly forbidden from entering it. It was quiet as on a cemetery...
With good reason... This guy had so botched business the company had gone broke, leaving 700 workers in the lurch, with no future, and possibly no pay, while its bosses were making escape plans to get away to Shaanxi province with money and a new investor to boot. |
Hey, wait a bit! This is all a bit much for my poor addled brain.
Yesterday, we had the world-premiere of the revelation that Roger has not been in China since 1994 (September). In fact, he's been here 1.5 years longer than he has ever previously revealed. He wrote yesterday that his recently-revealed backpacker odyssey occurred during 1993 and 1994. These were, apparently, non-years for him in China since, in his idiosyncratic way, he has never included this time in the official catalogue of his time here. Was he travelling incognito, an agent of an imperial power perhaps? Was that backpack worn on his belly in fact a secret camera photographing various installations for his foreign masters? Anything is possible since it was officially "non-time" as far as the official autobiography has been concerned hitherto.
But, anyway, here we have revealed that during the secret years as a "backpacker", he backpacked in important or moneyed places to the extent that he had tourist visas, business visas, had his name inscribed on factory name plates - all innocently, of course. My! What excitement must have lain in wait back in those days for the penurious backpacker. Naturally, all this skulduggery was thrust upon the hero of our saga unawares. What an innocent abroad our Roger was! It brings back the story of how, though expert in all things in China, he innocently wandered into a well-known high-class bordello where, forced by poverty to beg, he sought as a freebie a toothbrush and was surprised, maybe even outraged, to find that in the very opulent vestibule of this public whorehouse, he was offered instead a pack of condoms.
Company name plates, condoms - they all come Roger's way. Of course, as Millie points out this was probably a virtual nameplate and they were probably virtual condoms.
I am a bit puzzled by the "quiet as on a cemetery bit". WE usually say "as quiet as a cemetery" in this construction but maybe I am wrong since I know how strictly Roger enforces the ultimate in correctness in his "astoundingly successful" classrooms.
And I am relieved to find that no one will put it over Roger any more since he can now read Chinese fluently. No flies on him now.
I must say that I loved today's story. I must include it in the "Bouquet of Memories" that I am preparing from Roger's writings to mark the 5,000th. All the old favourites will be there - "The bordello, the toothbrush and the condoms"; "The mad monk, the precious stones and the remote Tibetan valley"; "Champagne Roger, the toast of the bus-stops"; "'Done' women". And maybe there'll be a pot-pourri, a sort of miscellany of glorious reminders like "Roger the Orienteer", "Roger the Pinker Thespian", "Roger the Disciplinarian" and, maybe, a table showing "Roger's 100 jobs in 10 years - they love me yet they let me go". I'd also like to do a piece on "How Roger became famous in so many schools and how he became a TV star". There'll be a tragic element too, of course, and we'll have the sorry saga of the churlish behaviour of those swine at the Shunde No 2 Kindergarten.
A Collector's Edition will be virtually available. |
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coolrcdad
Joined: 03 Mar 2005 Posts: 21 Location: Shoreline, Washington
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Posted: Wed Mar 09, 2005 5:18 pm Post subject: |
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Thanks to those who directly answered my question. I agree, the job has to be good along with the location.
I prefer more temperate to mildly tropical climes. From a geographic standpoint, I would probably look in central China but would not exclude Beijing or Hubei province. I visited Beijing, Chengdu, Guilin and Hefei in April and the weather was fine. |
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Roger
Joined: 19 Jan 2003 Posts: 9138
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Posted: Thu Mar 10, 2005 9:38 am Post subject: |
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TalkDoc,
it sounds as though Hainan has gotten its act together after years and years of openly practised sleaze. I am glad for anyone that they are treating FTs - if they deserve it, I suppose - the way you described: with respect. Respect should be mutual. It wasn't mutual until fairly recently. Still, you can check out posts by me on Hainan as a traveller's destination: always been in favour of it. It's great, one of China's best places to visit and relax. And it is only right for the locals to have a chance of meeting with foreign teachers who are happy there. Many of the locals have good reasons to be less than happy, considering the economy's performance. someone wrote a glowing post on Yangpu Middle School in Hainan Island - another place to go and enjoy a stint.
And, Old Dog,
finally you seem to be able to add up the years and months in my China-related posts; yes, I have been here and held down jobs every year since autumn, 1994. For two years I was working in Hong Kong, although I already had my home in mainland China. You are free to conjecture and to imagine things as you please, but beware of character assassinating remarks including my accidental discovery of a bordello in a 5-star Macau hotel and casino.
You have frequently crossed the boundary between legitimate queries and illegitimate comments; I warn you: one wrong remark too many, and I will do what I can to save my good name.
I have, for instance, never claimed I can read and write Chinese; be careful in what you are alleging!
Your obsession with my biography is pathological. |
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Old Dog

Joined: 22 Oct 2004 Posts: 564 Location: China
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Posted: Thu Mar 10, 2005 10:56 am Post subject: Smell |
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Sorry, everyone, for the smell. I've just read Roger's warning and I poo*ped my pants.
But to quibble:
Roger:
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| I have, for instance, never claimed I can read and write Chinese; be careful in what you are alleging! |
Well, to quote once again, the following seems to suggest very clearly that you can do just that:
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| This guy managed to get an investor's (businessman's) visa for me (his own doing) for me; the "proof" for me as an "investor" was a photograph of the name plaque of a new company headquarters in Xianyang, bearing my name (which I had never allowed him to use) in Chinese (which I at that time couldn't read, hence my ignorance). |
If you were not making the claim to have learnt to read Chinese since the Nameplate Incident of 1993, you should have written "which I can't read", not "which I at that time couldn't read". Was this a piece of sleight of hand or just plain ignorance of the language? Either way, it's not flattering.
How sweet it is to know that you and Talkdoc now treat one another with mutual respect and that Hainan is no longer a "dump".
Anyway, back to the "Bouquet of Memories" and a little statistical work in readiness for the Big 5000th which draws nigh. Is it true that they're organizing street parties in Guangzhou to mark the occasion. |
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Roger
Joined: 19 Jan 2003 Posts: 9138
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Posted: Fri Mar 11, 2005 7:10 am Post subject: |
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Come on, Old Dog: I couldn't read it at THAT TIME, but I can certainly read my transliterated name now as I also had to practise writing my name in CHinese to obtain my home ownership certificate. Even so, I can't read enough Chinese to use it in writing/reading. THere is no 'sleight of hand' involved.
I allowed a number of your perfidious attacks and insinuations to go unchallenged - but no more! |
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