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Changchun
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traveller



Joined: 19 Apr 2003
Posts: 100

PostPosted: Sun Oct 05, 2003 1:33 pm    Post subject: Re: Changchun resident Reply with quote

MyTurnNow wrote:


traveller wrote:
After the national holiday is over, I will go shopping for some seriously thick clothes for the winter (think "layers", "-30 below zero celsius", "ridiculously thin insulation", etc.) Naturally, I'll have to get rid of it when I move out.

Nooooo! Keep it all!
After leaving Changchun my next winter was spent in Suzhou, down in the "warm" part of China. I was stunned to encounter little or no heat, no insulation in buildings, etc.... I wore my Changchun clothes in Suzhou a lot, and I expect to wear them a bit here in Shanghai this year.


Oh, no! And it get's cold in Shanghai! AAAUGHHHH!

Well, thanks for the warning, at least! Sadly, my Shanghai dreams meets a little cold reality.
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naturegirl321



Joined: 04 May 2003
Posts: 9041
Location: home sweet home

PostPosted: Mon Oct 06, 2003 10:05 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

My impressions:
It's a city,which is a nice change from the village I was living it.

Lots of conviences, less noise.

But still dirty and run down a bit.

NO heat until 15 November and then it's turned off in February.
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MyTurnNow



Joined: 19 Mar 2003
Posts: 860
Location: Outer Shanghai

PostPosted: Mon Oct 06, 2003 10:57 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Hey traveller,
Shanghai might be a little better than Suzhou was for this...the buildings are newer. But then come to think of it, my school in Suzhou was in a modern high-rise building, and it was like a meat locker during the winter.

This area DOES get cold. It's not the bitter, relentless cold of Changchun or even Beijing, but there is most definitely a winter here. Be ready!

I haven't seen one of those 'conviences' yet, though...but I am new to Shanghai. Confused

MT
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naturegirl321



Joined: 04 May 2003
Posts: 9041
Location: home sweet home

PostPosted: Tue Oct 07, 2003 8:17 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

I think to appreicate conveniences, you have to live in a town that doesn't have any. A paved road, phones that work, and people that speak putonghua are novelties and conveniences for me after living in a rural area.
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naturegirl321



Joined: 04 May 2003
Posts: 9041
Location: home sweet home

PostPosted: Tue Oct 07, 2003 8:19 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

I think to appreicate conveniences, you have to live in a town that doesn't have any. A paved road, phones that work, and people that speak putonghua are novelties and conveniences for me after living in a rural area.
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MyTurnNow



Joined: 19 Mar 2003
Posts: 860
Location: Outer Shanghai

PostPosted: Tue Oct 07, 2003 12:32 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Ah, conveniences. Sure, Shanghai is just lousy with those.

Where were you before, naturegirl, and why?

MT
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traveller



Joined: 19 Apr 2003
Posts: 100

PostPosted: Wed Oct 08, 2003 6:13 am    Post subject: Good parts of Changchun - and about Shangahi... Reply with quote

Hi Naturegirl:

Actually, Changchun is even better than that! We have two Wall-Marts, a Sam's Club, a pile of KFC's and McDonalds, and a real downtown! (Actually, two of them...) And it's said that at the Shangri-la, you can get a real Western meal (at a Western price)

On Tongzhi road (watch the spelling!), there are three major English schools, and a foreign language bookstore. Go for a visit one day - I bet that it beats anything you'll find in the village.

Changchun has a major Bank of China branch, which can handle currency stuff. Expect much paper-shuffling if you want to change yuan to US dollars. Your school might be able to help you out on this...

PS: Naturegirl, did the folks down at the village actually start and point at you when you walked down the street? They don't actually do this here (except for the very young), but you'll get your fill of 'hello' very quickly!

To My Turn Now (and anyone else who wants to pipe in)

I have this illusion that Shanghai is the "New York of the East", just as the hype says. Well, maybe not New York, but at least a Hong Kong, so far as civllized conviences are concerned. Looking at some of the salaries available at Shanghai, I would think that my hope would not be completely delusional. (It seems to be the only place where people can resonably expect to recieve 150 RMB/hr)

But your words imply a certainlack of creature conforts there. How bad is it? I am wondering if Shangahi is really so far ahead as claimed: if a 10,000/ month job there is really a better deal than a 7,000/month job in Guangdong where it's warm (or in Zhuhai, a truly "clean, modern city" - according to the hype.)

General whining and dreaming:

************
Offical dream of the week: working on the Island of Hainan, supposedly the "Hawaii of China". Any leads for next year?
************
The casual reader might ask: if I love the sunshine so much, why did I take a job in the Frozen North? Answer: It's a long story....
************
Most disgusting habit so far: men spitting on the ground in the netbars. What is it about the Chinese and spitting?
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naturegirl321



Joined: 04 May 2003
Posts: 9041
Location: home sweet home

PostPosted: Wed Oct 08, 2003 11:32 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

I was in FengXian. I took a TEFL course in Czech Rep and that school opened a school in China, so I went there. I didn't know it would be so small. And yes, people did stare and point and shout hello many many times. Even people we saw everyday would shout hello.
Where are the Walmarts?
I've got a problem with Bank of China, they won't tranfer my money from JiangSu to here.
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Roger



Joined: 19 Jan 2003
Posts: 9138

PostPosted: Wed Oct 08, 2003 1:08 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

so, Naturegirl, you took a course from the Boland School, didn't you? Fengxian is near Xuzhou...
Can you shed some light on that training?
There might be many interested in your experience!
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MyTurnNow



Joined: 19 Mar 2003
Posts: 860
Location: Outer Shanghai

PostPosted: Wed Oct 08, 2003 1:39 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Shanghai is definitely NOT New York. It's not even Hong Kong....there is still a pretty wide gulf between the development level of SH and HK. But I do think Shanghai is the most open, modern, and international city in China. It's a tough call....the influence of HK may give this title to GZ.

SH is still a Chinese city, despite what you may hear...it's saddled with a lot more bureaucracy than HK is. It still has a lot of such Chinese "cultural adventures" as spitting, staring, berserk drivers, horrid toilets, etc. There are still a few foreign goodies that are hard to find here. There are a few areas around the top level of hotels and shopping centers that could be any city anywhere in the world, and that for China is pretty unique. But if you venture outside these enclaves there is no doubt which country you are in.

10K in SH or 7K in GZ? Personally I'd take 10K in SH. I think the cost of living here is higher than GZ but I'm not really sure it's 30% higher. I also like the weather better here...I hate hot weather and barely survive the summers here. I can't imagine wanting to go somewhere even hotter.

I live in a district in the far northern edge of the city proper and work even further out from the city center. I only have to mess with Puxi or Pudong when I want to, but I can be in the heart of Nanjing or Huaihai Roads for under 20 kuai by taxi, and by the end of this year I'll have a Metro stop about a block away.

My apartment is expensive at 3K/month, but it's also the nicest by far I've ever had in China and rivals any apartment I ever had in the States. (Remember, unlike many of you I need a place suitable for a wife, who is one of them there Shanghai faincy-women, and a baby...) The decor is beautiful and clean and modern. My back porch opens onto a pond with willows and bamboo, a pavilion and an arched bridge. Otherwise, costs of living don't seem too out of line with what I had in Suzhou.

I've also found salaries to be consistently higher here, and I have opportunities for outside part-time work that only Beijing could start to rival. I've already appeared in one national TV ad and gotten some film auditions; I've gotten one good writing gig and have more in the works. More possibilities pop up every day. I'm sure GZ has some of this too, but I'll venture that SH has a lot more.

Basically I've found life to be pretty good here...you may still spend all of those higher salaries but you do spend them on a better lifestyle.

Want western food in Changchun? Look for the Rose Garden not too far from the Shangri-La. They do a surprisingly respectable hamburger, and if you are patient and persistent you can even get them to put cheese on it. Also look for a place not too far away called Casablanca. Only in Beijing have I found better pizza in China. I never ate at the Shangri-La either...we went once for Christmas dinner but when I found out what they were charging, I made them a suggestion not exactly in keeping with the gentle loving spirit of the season and we stomped out. Twisted Evil

MT
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traveller



Joined: 19 Apr 2003
Posts: 100

PostPosted: Thu Oct 09, 2003 11:10 am    Post subject: Awesome post! Reply with quote

Wow! Very Happy A major word of thanks to MT!
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Captain Yossarian



Joined: 05 May 2004
Posts: 385
Location: Dongbei

PostPosted: Thu May 06, 2004 7:54 am    Post subject: Western Food in Changchun Reply with quote

Changchun has a great selection of Western restaurants. Yes, there are many KFCs and McDonalds and even two Pizza Huts. The Shangri La has recently slashed the price of its buffet to Y99 - including draught beer.

The Maxcourt Hotel (next to the Shangri La) has a wonderful new Thai restaurant that has exceptional curries for around Y30. Beer is expensive though. This hotel also has a buffet breakfast for around Y50.

Perhaps the best deals are at the ever more popular 'Curry House' restaurants. There are three now, with the most popular being on Guilin Road and another behind Hong Ke Long on Chongqing Road. Their curries are rather bland but the rest of the menu is exceptional for the price. Pasta dishes are all around Y12-Y15 - especially recommended is the pasta with cheese, bacon and broccoli. These restaurants are nicely decorated, have friendly staff and wonderful cheap drinks - beer for Y3 and Gin and Tonic for Y12 for example.

On Longli Lu The Curry Shop offers the best Indian food this side of Beijing - very tasty.

The French Cafe is the oldest ex-pat hangout in Changchun. It still sells good bread and coffee and is a relaxing place to hang-out. By far the best coffee in dongbei can be had at Prussia Coffee on Xikong Road - Y13 for a sumptious Cafe Caramel Mocha.

MT mentioned the Rose Garden - that's still worth a visit - as is the Europa Cafe near Big Peace World.

There are now three Wal-Marts in Changchun - Sam's Club didn't do well (not enough people have cars) and has (last week) converted into a regular Wal-Mart. Another is near the Shangri-La and the third is near the train station on Changjiang Road. A good alternative to Wal-Mart is Century Mart - just down Tongzhi Street from Xi'an Road. The former Sam's Club branch of Wal-Mart can be reached on the fabulous new light railway that extends around the city from the station.

Subway opened in the summer of 2003 - but doesn't seem to have caught on with the locals.

There are more places - I'll note them down when I can remember!

Geoff (a very old CC hand).
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naturegirl321



Joined: 04 May 2003
Posts: 9041
Location: home sweet home

PostPosted: Fri May 07, 2004 1:22 am    Post subject: Re: Western Food in Changchun Reply with quote

Captain Yossarian wrote:
Perhaps the best deals are at the ever more popular 'Curry House' restaurants. There are three now, with the most popular being on Guilin Road and another behind Hong Ke Long on Chongqing Road. Their curries are rather bland but the rest of the menu is exceptional for the price. Pasta dishes are all around Y12-Y15 - especially recommended is the pasta with cheese, bacon and broccoli. These restaurants are nicely decorated, have friendly staff and wonderful cheap drinks - beer for Y3 and Gin and Tonic for Y12 for example.

On Longli Lu The Curry Shop offers the best Indian food this side of Beijing - very tasty.

The French Cafe is the oldest ex-pat hangout in Changchun. It still sells good bread and coffee and is a relaxing place to hang-out. By far the best coffee in dongbei can be had at Prussia Coffee on Xikong Road - Y13 for a sumptious Cafe Caramel Mocha.
).


Thanks for the info about the CUrry House, I'm going to look for them today. Where are you working in CC? I'm at Excel-World Kindergarten.
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Captain Yossarian



Joined: 05 May 2004
Posts: 385
Location: Dongbei

PostPosted: Sat May 22, 2004 5:39 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Changchun doesn't do badly at all in terms of tourism and things to see. It has one of the largest collections of Imperial Japanese architecture in China. Check out the fabulous old government buildings around Renmin Square and the whole of Xinmen Street.

Puyi's palace is well worth a visit, especially if you have just watched The Last Emporer. It has recently been refurbished and is much better than the description offered in The Rough Guide and Lonely Planet. You can go down into his old bunker and even see his car.

The skiing at Jilin is OK and the resort at Yabuli (near Haerbin) is pretty good, although the people running it are often bureaucratic to the extreme. Jinyuetan - the nature reserve 30 mins out of Changchun now has 3 ski slopes - which are great for beginners and imtermediates.

Beijing (from April 2004) is now only 8 hours away on the new Z (non-stop) night train. Dalian is also only a night train away, as is Changbaishan.

The International Sculpture Park that opened in the fall of 2003 is another surprising feather in Changchun's cap.
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NateM



Joined: 19 Apr 2004
Posts: 358

PostPosted: Sat Jun 05, 2004 8:03 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Does anyone know anything about Changchun Teachers College? I applied for a job here, and was wondering if I could find out more about it, as I haven't seen any previous references to it. Any help would be appreciated.
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