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Chengdu, Qingdao or drawing board?
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bacalao



Joined: 04 Aug 2013
Posts: 6

PostPosted: Wed Aug 14, 2013 12:57 pm    Post subject: Chengdu, Qingdao or drawing board? Reply with quote

Hi all,

I've done plenty of prep lurk already, but I believe all of you when you say things change fast in China, so I thought I would throw a line out for some current opinions.

I've just received an offer in Chengdu. It's at a mill, 8,000 rmb plus 1,000 rmb housing allowance, for 25 teaching hours and 15 aquarium diorama hours. I know the mentors here tend to sneer at that sort of arrangement, and I have plenty of doubts myself, but before I even start on any negotiations or existential compromises, I have a more fundamental doubt to deal with about whether I should go to Chengdu at all.

I got pretty set on Chengdu. From what I can tell online, its size and character, and its balance of new development and historical undertow, would suit me well. But as I started to understand that the air quality there is about as bad as it gets for a second-tier city and only getting worse, I started to have second thoughts.

My instinct is to go in with a who-cares, how-bad-could-it-be attitude, but I know that my concept of air pollution's potential to tangibly ruin my day may not be calibrated for China.

So with Chengdu's one giant drawback in mind, I started my job search again with relatively ok air quality as the top priority. That brought me to Qingdao, which seems like another very interesting city, with its own character, and less disincentives to breathe. But somehow Qingdao attracts my imagination a little less than Chengdu. From my wholly unscientific first impression, it feels safer, tamer, less one of China's strange vital organs than Chengdu. On the other hand, I'm also concerned I may be falling prey to an advertised romantic notion of Chengdu that won't have much relation to the reality there. And I'm sure Qingdao would blow my mind plenty.

So I'm asking for any weigh-ins, counterpoints or relevant info at all. People in either place now? People who have spent time in both? Year-later job prospects in either place? Cost of living? Vibrancy of cultural scene, actual inhabitants? Or tell me to shut up and decide on my own, which I am considering doing, along with maybe just travelling to some cities first so I can get some firsthand knowledge.

My stats: I'm a mid20s newbie, never been to China, don't speak but would like to learn Mandarin, don't want to to get comfy with a circle of westerners or be unduly tempted to, but won't mind a couple commiseraters/conspirators at times, like cities that have a coherent temperament, a place I can form an idea of in my head (auckland, phoenix fail; dunedin, tucson, nyc, charlottesville pass), not as important what the idea is
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muffintop



Joined: 07 Jan 2013
Posts: 803

PostPosted: Wed Aug 14, 2013 1:39 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Do you have an offer in Qingdao? If so, please provide details. Frankly if you are interested in both cities, let the best job offer decide for you.

I have never been to Chengdu but have lived in Qingdao for over 3 years. It's a pretty good city to live in if you can stand the humidity all year. In summer it feels hotter than it is and in winter it will chill you to the bone though the temp may not be very low.

As most other cities in China (I believe) Qingdao is rather spread out. You'll have a totally different vibe from district to district. Shibei, Shinan, Huangdao, Licang, Chenyang, Laoshan, Jimo.....some of these are pretty far from what I would consider the city. If you don't mind being a bit out of the main city, Huangdao is quiet and clean (in comparison) and the beaches are better. Shinan is the main part of the city I guess where you'll easily find foreign goods and beaches chock full of tourists. Things tend to be on the expensive side here. Shibei is where I live and it's really ideal for me right now. I live in what's called Taidong. Shopping and eating are inexpensive and there is no shortage of either. Night BBQ's are all over the place for all but the coldest months. It's a bit on the crowded (and dirty) side but it's more or less centrally located to everything in the city. Public transportation in and out of taidong is excellent.

Cost of living is...reasonable if you know where to shop. Avoid the touristy areas, shop where the locals do.

Summer brings in tourists by the boatload and it will be often difficult to find taxis or restaurants with an open table. After you spend some time here and know more than the tourists do you'll be fine. They tend to flock to the same places and it's relatively easy to avoid the herds.

As far as culture is concerned...Qingdao has some history and you'll find German architecture in some parts of the city. Pretty easy to spot....they are just about the only buildings more than 40 years old that have not collapsed. Outside of that there is...beer in a bag. Beer really is Qingdao's 'thing'.....that and seafood.
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mw182006



Joined: 10 Dec 2012
Posts: 310

PostPosted: Wed Aug 14, 2013 1:46 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Welcome. You're going to get a wide range of responses, including a possible troll or two. I am preparing to move to Chengdu myself as a first timer, so I can't offer anything as far as personal experience. If you haven't stumbled on it already, I can point you to chengduliving.com which is a nice little site run by some expats there. Here's an article they put out on pollution specifically, and at one point someone was posting daily pictures of the air quality in the forum.

http://www.chengduliving.com/chengdu-pollution-tips/

I'll be living about 10 minutes outside of the city, so I'm hoping that's going to cut down on my exposure a bit.
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Javelin of Radiance



Joined: 01 Jul 2009
Posts: 1187
Location: The West

PostPosted: Wed Aug 14, 2013 1:46 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

muffintop wrote:
Summer brings in tourists by the boatload and it will be often difficult to find taxis or restaurants with an open table. After you spend some time here and know more than the tourists do you'll be fine. They tend to flock to the same places and it's relatively easy to avoid the herds.

Moooo, yeah time to cull the herd !

Can't go wrong in Chengdu. Best thing about the place is the food, which is (my opinion anyway) the best in China. Plus some of the most scenic spots in China are in Sichuan. While most tourists can only get to them on major holidays you'd be close enough to most of them for a long weekend trip. That's enough to recommend the city to most people I think.
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muffintop



Joined: 07 Jan 2013
Posts: 803

PostPosted: Wed Aug 14, 2013 2:08 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Javelin of Radiance wrote:

Moooo, yeah time to cull the herd !


Dude, you have no idea. I cringe when I see tourists now. They are easy to spot. I've been here long enough that I'm pretty much used to Qingdaoren. Tourists...are just a little absurd in varying ways. Sometimes hilarious, sometimes aggravating. Every time I see a person holding a flag and bullhorn I run the other way. Chinese in general are not known for their manners or etiquette...throw a bunch of folks from some village in pigscrew nowhere into a city known for beer and......yeah.

If you are single or act like you are single this is a really good city though. So many people from other places without mommy and daddy watching over their shoulders. If you can't find a date for almost every night of the week in Qingdao you may have issues.
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chinatimes



Joined: 27 May 2012
Posts: 478

PostPosted: Wed Aug 14, 2013 2:40 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Quote:
So I'm asking for any weigh-ins, counterpoints or relevant info at all.


China is a big country. In Korea it's possible to live in Busan and spend the weekend in Seoul. To do this in China as easily would probably need a flight.

If you want to travel around while you are in China get out a map and look at locations. Qingdao is a "corner city". The first big city you can get to from there is Jinan. I am guessing 2 hours by fast train.

http://www.chinatrainguide.com/jinan-railway-station/qingdao.html

They say 2.5 at best with the G185 train. Other times go to 4-5 hours.

So if you travel, you can't make day trips. I decided to go up north instead. I am in Tangshan now and can take a train to Beijing that takes 1 hour and 9 minutes or a bus which is 2 hours. This means I can go in the morning and return same day at night if I don't want to spend the night. If you are in a corner city you are faced with the problem of having to spend the night. It's not a problem if you plan ahead and pack, but I too often leave something behind at home and prefer to just return same day.

From Tangshan, for the longer journeys, I can go to Qinhuangdao, take a boat to Dalian and Qingdao or take a train up to Shenyang, Changchun, or Harbin.

So, in conclusion, you would need to be like a Boston person or a coastal person to want to Qingdao it. Otherwise, you will be cornered in. Regardless how nice it is, you will probably want to get out.

I am not as equipped to comment on Chengdu, but I would do the same and look at a map and train routes. It's also a corner city much further away from other cities. Now you are cornered in on the west side. Second observation, it is the same latitude as Shanghai. The weather will be a lot warmer. Do you prefer this?

The closest major city would be Chongqing, is this something you might want to branch off to later on? I have never been to the west and I can't say anything bad about it but I don't see how transportation would be fun in all that heat.

The train hours range from 2 hours to 10.5 hours.

http://www.chinatrainguide.com/chongqing-railway-station/chengdu.html

If you take the safer 2.5 hour ones in the evening you will be looking at spending the night definitely. This isn't bad, but you will need to pack your suitcase, it won't be a day trip.

Personally, I would go to Chongqing instead, that way I could visit Chengdu and it looks like you could visit places like Xian in less time.
http://www.chinatrainguide.com/chongqing-railway-station/xian.html
http://www.chinatrainguide.com/chengdu-railway-station/xian.html

Looks like 11 hours from Chongqing and 15 from Chengdu.

Also, look at the subway maps, Chengdu has 2 lines, Chongqing has 4 lines. I am looking at a map of China through the Baidu map service, so I don't know if new lines have been built or if all 4 are functioning, but from a glance I would say Chongqing would be a better city to go to in the west.
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