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Guiyang or greater Guizhou

 
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likwid_777



Joined: 04 Nov 2012
Posts: 411
Location: NA

PostPosted: Thu Jan 15, 2015 7:21 am    Post subject: Guiyang or greater Guizhou Reply with quote

Has anyone worked in Guiyang or anywhere else in Guizhou province? Alternatively, has anyone visited as a tourist? What were your experiences, thoughts or impressions?

Please be "Zhenyuan" in your responses Laughing
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mysterytrain



Joined: 23 Mar 2014
Posts: 366

PostPosted: Sat Jan 17, 2015 10:37 am    Post subject: Re: Guiyang or greater Guizhou Reply with quote

likwid_777 wrote:


Please be "Zhenyuan" in your responses Laughing

Is that a play "yuan" words?

Well, I haven't worked there (yet), but I spent ten days in northeastern Guangxi and Guizhou in the late part of December (2-3 weeks ago, that December) on a holiday visit from "another country".

I didn't make it to Guiyang, but I can give you a few brief "impressions, thoughts, and experiences", generally speaking:

The Guizhou part of the trip basically involved a thirteen hour train ride from Guilin to the smallish, (prefecture-level capital, I believe) city (third-tier? fourth tier? no tier? tierless? Confused ) called Tongren, and then back to Guilin the same way. (It looks, from the map, to be about the third-largest city in Guizhou, anyway.)

I spent about 48 hours there (no Chris Tucker or Nick Nolte though), arriving in the wee hours of the morning on a ___day and departing in the same on a ___day (don't remember - well, yes - actually we arrived at 1:21 am on Christmas Day, and left at 4:23 am on ... two days after Christmas day).

I went there specifically for the purpose of meeting with staff of a Chinese-owned training school (for kids), with whom I'd had contact online. This I did, met the owners, had a nice chat and coffee, asked and answered some questions, looked around the school, was taken to see the apartment for foreign teachers (or one of them - very possibly me, later this year), missed meeting the one FT currently working at the school (think he might have been too hungover to come to the door ... the owner's birthday party was the night before ... plus Christmas eve ... gan bei!), etc.

Hm... impressions:

My wife was cold, and not too happy; I was happy (though not cold enough); I liked what I saw of the city, especially the fact that it's surrounded by large hilltons (small mounills?), the vaguely conical variety that I saw all the way from Yangshuo to ... there, "a river runs through it", and it's plenty big enough for me (though might be much too small for some); urm ... train station smelt a bit pissy ... is that normal for China? Shocked

Guiyang would certainly have the most options in terms of schools / jobs. The school I may work for in Tongren also has a branch school in Guiyang, plus there's an EF, and a few others ... Guiyang would also have the highest number of fellow exiles from the countries of Western lore, if that's important to you ... from what I read on the net, there's a bar frequented by such types, a smattering of Western-style cafes / coffeeshop / etc, some might even be run / owned by actual Westerners ... Tongren has a KFC, about four or five Western foreigners, according to the last census, and ... I think that's about it, maybe.

Zunyi is a few hours north of Guiyang in the direction of Chongqing, don't know much about it but I imagine it as a slightly bigger version of Tongren. There are a few English schools there too.

The new high speed rail link between Guiyang and Guangzhou - well, the part between Guiyang and Guilin, anyway - opened to polite applause while we were there, that makes for a relatively quick and dizzying shot to "the Big Guang", or whatever they call it, and Hong Kong ... I'm comforted by the fact that from Tongren (or so I'm told) one can get to the bright lights of Chongqing in just six hours by train.

Don't know if any of that is (helpful) news to you or not, but that's my two yuan.

Curious why you're also interested in Guizhou ... ?

My answers are: milder winters and (hopefully) cleaner air than many other parts of the country (the milder winters are for the wife's benefit, not mine); ethnic / cultural diversitude(ness) of the region; and ... (forget).
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likwid_777



Joined: 04 Nov 2012
Posts: 411
Location: NA

PostPosted: Sat Jan 17, 2015 4:35 pm    Post subject: Re: Guiyang or greater Guizhou Reply with quote

mysterytrain wrote:

Is that a play "yuan" words?


Haha it certainly was. Yes thanks, your post was helpful, especially the info about the new train lines. Such infrastructure may be useful for a weekend (or days off) escape.

I just thought that the "poorest" province in China could provide a bit more of an adventure than some of the powerhouses of Eastern China. I saw a few photos of some of the buildings, the structures look very Chinese and easy on the eyes. I say this in comparison to my previous and only gig in China, which was in Harbin.

On the note of adventure, there is a concern that there will be little to none of the "old China" left if I decide to go instead in twenty years time, as an older tourist. Have to just decide in the very near future when I get my Ed degree, whether to do the sensible thing or the adventurous thang. Such options are to work in Laowai Land to get experience (and an asset, if small), or to just run on the scent of an oily rag in China.

It would be good to go back to Harbin to learn pure Mandarin, but I squandered that opportunity the first time, and don't particularly won't to move "backward" to the sub arctic. Onwards and sidewards, I say!

Sorry if this doesn't make sense, I'm sleep typing.
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mysterytrain



Joined: 23 Mar 2014
Posts: 366

PostPosted: Sun Jan 18, 2015 10:14 am    Post subject: Re: Guiyang or greater Guizhou Reply with quote

likwid_777 wrote:


I just thought that the "poorest" province in China could provide a bit more of an adventure than some of the powerhouses of Eastern China. I saw a few photos of some of the buildings, the structures look very Chinese and easy on the eyes. I say this in comparison to my previous and only gig in China, which was in Harbin.

On the note of adventure, there is a concern that there will be little to none of the "old China" left if I decide to go instead in twenty years time, as an older tourist. Have to just decide in the very near future when I get my Ed degree, whether to do the sensible thing or the adventurous thang. Such options are to work in Laowai Land to get experience (and an asset, if small), or to just run on the scent of an oily rag in China.

It would be good to go back to Harbin to learn pure Mandarin, but I squandered that opportunity the first time, and don't particularly won't to move "backward" to the sub arctic. Onwards and sidewards, I say!

Sorry if this doesn't make sense, I'm sleep typing.


Harbin, eh? I was in the opposite northern extreme (Xinjiang). I haven't been to the Northeast, but a friend who had been there described Heilongjiang, Jilin, etc, as very industrial and bleak, without a whole lot to recommend it apart from the obvious "attractions" (ice festival, etc). Sounds like you may be willing to corroborate his statement. I read there is some interesting Russian-style architecture around those parts, however.

I read a travel blog article in which Tongren, specifically, was described as an exemplar of "the real China", which was presented as a way of explaining why very few foreigners particularly want to go or stay there. I think you're onto something, as far as what may be left of "the old, traditional China", Guizhou probably has retained a bit more due to its relative economic insignificance and geography / location. People are said to be notably more friendly and open than in more "developed" parts of the country, which from my brief experience seemed to be true.

I don't know your circumstances, but I vote for adventure when possible, even if less "practical" than other options. The comment about "in twenty years" is very valid, I think!

When we were taken to see the FT's apartment in Tongren, I was struck by the view from the balcony, from the semi-squalid residential sprawl at the bottom to the lovely hills rising above. Of course, there's always got to be a butt-ugly unpainted concrete building blocking the view of the mountain ... I think that sums up modern China in a way:

http://i.imgur.com/Zfm7fjx.jpg

http://i.imgur.com/KFWm0Dj.jpg

It struck me as we traveled by bus and train through northern Guangxi and Eastern Guizhou, "if some parts of China are still this beautiful, imagine what all of it must have looked like a hundred, five hundred, a thousand or five thousand years ago ... no wonder folks found little better to do than compose songs, make paintings and write poems, all trying to describe its beauty'. Of course, they didn't have HBO ...

There are rumored to be lots of picturesque little places in the area, if you're interested in visiting ethnic minorities traditional villages (Dong, Miao, etc) and so on. The one place we went to was Ma'an, in a cluster of seven Dong villages in Chengyang District, near Sanjiang (northern Guangxi); the wind and rain bridge was beautiful:

http://i.imgur.com/9F93BL7.jpg

The village itself had a bit of a Disney-replica feel about it, but it was pleasant:

http://i.imgur.com/wzaXzVk.jpg

http://i.imgur.com/J10lCny.jpg

You can certainly study Mandarin in Guizhou, though it may not be strictly "up to snuff": I'm told that many locals speak local dialects, which only remotely resemble "putonghua", or the ethnic languages, so even if one spoke fluent Mandarin, it might be difficult to communicate with them. (That's not a big problem for me, as I can barely speak a basic sentence in Mandarin anyway ... Cool )
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likwid_777



Joined: 04 Nov 2012
Posts: 411
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PostPosted: Mon Jan 19, 2015 8:03 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

The Russian style architecture around Harbin is nice, don't get me wrong, but it's not Chiiiina.

Thanks for the photos of Tongren. Hahah, I guess that the stats weren't joking where they suggested that this province be ze poorest!

Which city are you in now out of curiosity's sake? If you care to tell, that is.

Yes, if I go the adventurous route, I'll probably get myself a CELTA upon completion of my Ed degree and hopefully be set for a while (qualification wise).
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fat_chris



Joined: 10 Sep 2003
Posts: 3198
Location: Beijing

PostPosted: Mon Feb 09, 2015 10:52 pm    Post subject: Re: Guiyang or greater Guizhou Reply with quote

mysterytrain wrote:
I spent about 48 hours there (no Chris Tucker or Nick Nolte though)


Actually, that would be Eddie Murphy, but I digress.

I dug Guiyang on my visit there in September 2013. During that year my home base was in Chengdu and Guiyang felt 5-10 years behind Chengdu.

For a while I had an idea to study Chinese for a year at Guida in Guiyang. I keep this idea in the back of my mind.

Warm regards,
fat_chris
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Trebek



Joined: 30 Oct 2003
Posts: 401
Location: China

PostPosted: Tue Feb 10, 2015 4:35 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

I spent a week in Guiyang a couple years ago. I was pleased with the cooler temperatures which was nice after spending part of the summer in Guangxi. The city was fairly compact, a bit hilly, one decent hostel, and a very large statue of Mao in the center. I saw two westerners the entire week and they happened to own a decent coffee shop that featured some western food. Its a good place to live as long as you don't mind the Chinese only experience.
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wuliuchiba



Joined: 07 Jul 2013
Posts: 61

PostPosted: Wed Jul 08, 2015 12:24 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

The coffee shop mentioned in the previous post was most probably Highlands, which is right next to People's Square where the Wal-Mart is, just a short stroll across the small Nanming River that runs throughout the city. The big statue of Mao is across that street, in front of the Minority People's museum that is the dominant architectural building of the city.

I just finished a year teaching in Guiyang.

Pros first:

1) Though it's a provincial capitol of 4 million people, as it's crammed between mountains, it's quite compact. You can easily walk from one end of the city to the other within a few hours and most anywhere is within walking distance of the center, and walking is often faster than traffic.

2) Due to the elevation and constant rains, it keeps cool throughout the year, even in summer. It gets little chilly in the winter but only a little.

3) The pace of life is extremely laid-back compared to other cities in China. When other cities are bustling in the mornings, it seems as if most people in Guiyang stay in bed until they're ready to get up, as the streets are eerily deserted in the mornings. The locals don't seem to be in much of hurry and take it easy at work. But this might be true of most of China outside of Shanghai/Shenzhen/Guangzhou/Beijing?

4) Guizhou is a beautiful rustic province, full of awesome hiking opportunities. Lots of mountains.

5) Related to #3 - Guiyang has a very active nightlife. It has an unusually high amount of bars for a city of its size, and since the city is compact, there are at least a couple of bar streets (Qianling, Guangming near the train station) with a dozen or so bars all crammed together.

Now for the cons:

1) Good luck actually experiencing some of that natural scenery, because it literally rains every other day. There is a 50% chance of showers on any random day. I am not exaggerating.

2) I forgot to mention it's the home of Maotai in the pros, because Maotai like all Chinese spirits is foul and evil. Guizhou is a small and quite boring city and the locals seem to drink to compensate. If you have a problem with alcohol, this is not the place to go. See #5 in the pros -- it has an unusually high percentage of bars because it has an unusually high rate of alcoholism. There is really nothing else to do in the city on your weekend nights.

3) There's no metro and traffic is so bad during rush hour that you're better off just walking instead of bus/taxi, as I said before. But this is really no big deal since most everywhere is walkable to.

4) Because it's isolated in the mountains, most everything has to be imported. Which means that even though Guizhou is one of the poorest provinces in China, it's one of the most expensive. Food is actually more expensive than in Shanghai, and I mean local food from street vendors! You pay twice for meats and vegetables what you pay in most other cities in China, because those are all imported. The cheapest decent food to eat in Guiyang, aside from noodles and rice with eggs? Subway, surprisingly or not.

5) This can be either a pro or con depending on your perspective. There are very few foreigners (one of the Chinese teachers at my school said it was because most foreigners who come here don't seem to like it very much), and the level of English among the locals is one of the lowest I've encountered in China. Since only 1 out of 1,000 speaks any English beyond "Hello. How are you. I am fine, thank you. Giggle." you MUST speak SOME Chinese in order to get around.

Oh, you'll get a lot of stares Shocked . And a lot of attention from girls who've never met a real live foreigner in their life Very Happy Hardly any of them will speak a word of English, of course, but look at it as an incentive to practice your Chinese. Since the locals aren't used to foreigners, the girls are very approachable and friendly. Especially if you speak at least a little Chinese, which is absolutely essential -- they're very curious about foreigners, but will be afraid to talk to you since they don't speak any English.


Last edited by wuliuchiba on Wed Jul 08, 2015 12:47 pm; edited 1 time in total
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wuliuchiba



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PostPosted: Wed Jul 08, 2015 12:46 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

A good site with lots of info and a Guiyang For Expats pdf you can download:

http://www.tourguizhou.net/

The main expat hangouts are

1) Highlands Coffee near Walmart
2) Tripsmith in an alley off of Qianling. Serve the best burgers and fish'n'chips in town, and becomes a packed, lively pub at night. Very hard to find, though, as it's way down a little alley, so you'll need someone to guide you there the first time.
3) The Paulener German restaurant attached to the Kempenski hotel. Pricey but great German food, and good homebrewed beer. Across the street from the Hunter Mall with the Carrefour, Starbucks, and an arcade in the mall that has pinball! (the only reason I went to the arcade)
4)Right next door to the Paulener is Muse, the main dance club in town. If you want to meet the entire foreign population of Guiyang, go there on Saturday night. Why? Because on Sat. nights they have a special for foreigners: FREE BEER. The first time I went there, I asked for a beer, and they told me I had to sign up for a VIP card. After waiting around for half an hour and getting impatient for one beer, they came back with an ice bucket stuffed with a twelve-pack and told me it was on the house. You can request a bottle of wine or a big bottle of vodka/gin/whiskey if you'd prefer (there's a large crowd of Ukrainians in town and they always grabbed a liter of vodka as their freebies). This only applies to Foreigner Night on Saturdays. You'll see half the expat population that night, for the obvious reason.
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mysterytrain



Joined: 23 Mar 2014
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PostPosted: Thu Jul 09, 2015 7:16 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

wuliuchiba wrote:

2) I forgot to mention it's the home of Maotai in the pros, because Maotai like all Chinese spirits is foul and evil. Guizhou is a small and quite boring city and the locals seem to drink to compensate. If you have a problem with alcohol, this is not the place to go. See #5 in the pros -- it has an unusually high percentage of bars because it has an unusually high rate of alcoholism.

Is it possible the reverse correlation is equally or more accurate?


Quote:
5) This can be either a pro or con depending on your perspective. There are very few foreigners (one of the Chinese teachers at my school said it was because most foreigners who come here don't seem to like it very much), and the level of English among the locals is one of the lowest I've encountered in China. Since only 1 out of 1,000 speaks any English beyond "Hello. How are you. I am fine, thank you. Giggle." you MUST speak SOME Chinese in order to get around.

My wife and I will be spending at least the better part of a year in Tongren, in the northeast corner of the province. There are, basically, NO foreigners there, and this is very possibly the literal truth. The school I'll be working for has had, apparently, as many as three foreign experts at one time, but the one veteran holdout they had when I visited last December chucked it in a couple of months ago and flew back to the UK. There were rumored to be three or four Peace Corps volunteers based there, but the FT mentioned above says he never saw them.

In spite of having spent ten months in Xinjiang and working for the last four years in an Indonesian school in which Mandarin is part of the compulsory curriculum for all students, I speak very close to no Chinese (badly) and compared with my wife I'm an expert. In any case, I understand that the local dialects are so different from standard putonghua that much of what is said may be incomprehensible anyway.

We didn't actually make it to Guiyang on our trip, but essentially, Tongren seems to make Guiyang seem like Beijing by comparison: Wal-Mart, Carrefour, Subway, bars, German restaurant ... it sounds like a magical Disneyland!

But we'll be only five hours away from Chongqing by train ....
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wuliuchiba



Joined: 07 Jul 2013
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PostPosted: Fri Jul 10, 2015 12:35 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

I forgot to mention my #1 complaint about Guiyang: the local cuisine has to rank as the worst in China. It's oily, greasy, and they pour red pepper sauce over everything. I have a theory that they serve it so spicy to cover up the poor quality. This theory has been confirmed by my eating some of the local food "bu yao la jao" and it was quite bland. So since then I just added a little of that red spice (they even serve you side of red spice at fast food joints like Dico's -- it's like they're drug addicts or something to the spice). Guizhou cuisine is little known even in China, and for good reason. The one local delicacy is some spicy dumpling balls known as siwawa. Like I said, most of the food has to be imported, and most of it is of poor quality.

There is a long alley full of vendors near the train station, next to the mall with the Burger King/Walmart, that's probably the best spot to go if you want to try a variety of local street foods.
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