Job Discussion Forums

[refazenda]

Has anyone here taught in Ethiopia? I've looked at the Job Information Journal, but wanted to get some more up-to-date information. I know the basics about the country, and I have visited other countries in Africa before, so I know what to expect in general, but not specific. What is the cost of living like? What would one expect to be a reasonable/comfortable living wage using birr? I know that is an extremely subjective question, but what would a frugal westerner living in a two bedroom house or apartment expect to pay for rent, utilities, etc?

Another important consideration is heating. I know that houses in some countries are not heated to western standards (China comes to mind, but even some parts of Japan). Addis Ababa can get cold at night; are houses generally heated or should one expect to wear sweaters, etc to keep warm at home?

Would I need a car in Addis? Could I buy something decent there?

Any other comments or suggestions would be greatly appreciated.

[grahamb]

Check out the relevant entries in the Job Information Journal.

[refazenda]

I already checked the Job Information Journal before posting here, but there is a paucioty of recent information on Ethiopia in general. if anyone as any specific comments as to their personal experience in Ethiopia, I would appreciate hearing it, either on this board or by PM. Thanks.

[khmerhit]

Did you see the job ad recently posted by a school in AA?

I shouldnt worry about the temperature---just GO. Figure it out when you get there.....

Have agood one. Thats where i wanna go too.

[senor boogie woogie]

Hola!

Is the Ethiopian chicken still the world's fastest land animal?

Senor

[Eijse]

...

[khmerhit]

there should be a Paris-Addis animal rally!

[danmews]

I worked in Addis Ababa for the year 2002/2003, teaching at a private school.

I wouldn't recommend buying a car, as the public transportation (mini-buses) are really inexpensive -- the average ride about 55 cents, less than one birr (One US dollar is equal to about 8 Ethiopian Birr). You can get everywhere, and they are not permitted to overcrowd them by law. So it isn't a horrible ride. But Ethiopians do not like the windows to be open on public transport, so sometimes it is very hot. good to be by the door. They beleive that the wind makes them sick. Bargain hard with taxi's (even though theyare dirt cheap too).

Which brings me to the best part of Ethiopia. The people. I've travelled alot in Africa, and generally not had any bad experiences. However Ethiopia really takes it up a notch in terms of generousity, kindness and curiousity. Travelling in the country is tantamount to being a movie star. You are the entertainment.

As hungry as most of the country is, they would share anything with you. One caution -- if you ask an Ethiopian to do something, that means you pay for it. This is their culture. So if you ask them for drinks, or for lunch -- make sure you pay. They do the same thing amongst themselves and also with you. Food is very cheap, unless you shop in the "ferengi" foreignor grocery stores (there aren't many) then be prepared to pay alot for imported or higher quality food. You can get breakfast cereals, etc. Lots of kiosks in neighborhoods where you can get fruits and veg very cheap.

the guidebooks say you have to accept the habit Ethiopians have of feeding you -- called "gursha" forgive my spelling. However I effectively got out of this all the time. Because basically they are feeding you food directly from their fingers to your mouth.

Now this brings me to health issues. Don't eat their specialty of raw meat. There are aniimals wandering everywhere in Addis. They don't look great and are full of worms. They drink out of the open sewage running down the main streets. They eat whatever they can get. People squat anywhere to go to the toilet. The flies -- god -- up your nose, in your mouth -- it's horrendous. I lived in a nice modern house with a large family of roaches (which thrive nicely in the oven and the fridge) and rats. Get every shot you can. You don't want to go to a doctor there. They are not well paid, and the hospitals are abominable in Addis, and none virtually exist in the country. You don't need malaria for Addis -- high altitude. You probably don't need it in most places, and I personally think it is worse to take it all the time than just treat malaria, but then again I'm not a doctor! However, malaria is only a problem in certain seasons, and they'll tell you. the private clinics run by foreignors are expensive if you do need health care. You'll have to pay in advance. The Swedish Clinic is the most highly thought of. If you get sick, and you will, doctors like to give shots. There is a shot for everything.

Driving is terrible, if you have a 4x4 it is worth it, otherwise I wouldn't bother with a car anyway. Very few good roads. Addis has a lot of paved roads, but they aren't all -- my street was not and I lived in a shi-shi area of the city. the taxis didn't even like to drive down it, it was so bumpy and hard on their cars.

There are a ton of schools. In the country and in the city. There are a ton of starving people on the road. the only time you will not be accosted is in your own home. Otherwise you have to be prepared to be constantly approached. I gave alot of food away, it is heartbreaking and horrifying that there is that much foreign aid and so many dying. You really have to steel yourself for the stress and sadness of seeing so much despair.

My first day in Addis I felt I had made the biggeest mistake of my life. It makes Nairobi look like a fabulous city (which it isn't particularly). In my first three months I was constantly up and down whether or not I could stay. the thing keeping me -- the kids in the school. Incredible. They love to learn, they love foreignors and they are amazingly hard-working. It is the friends I made that made it difficult to leave. But I sure did want to get out too.

Addis is hot most of the year -- it is dark at 7 p.m. every night all year -- cooler in the rainy season (it's miserable then) May - October about. Lots of mud. They are on a 13 month calendar, and don't use a 24 hour clock. 12 hour clock. Can be confusing. Christmas is in January. 6 a.m. our time is 12 theirs.

Be prepared to deal with a very religious country, half orthodox christian, half Muslim. Everyone is extremely devout. You should act accordingly. Smoking excessive drinking is frowned upon by everyone. Cover up! There are lots of bars in Addis. Traditional and not. Ethiopian women are beautiful. All of them, and I stress ALL -- in the bars are prostitutes. It is very sad, but seems to be their only option for survival. I really was disgusted by the foreign men that took advantage of this. Be prepared to deal with femal circumcision, and with beatings of women and children. It is not necessarily legal, but it is certainly not an issue, even with the women. That being said, it is a very spiritual place, the birthplace of christianity (ark of the covenant and all that). Amazing. Both religions get along and are mixed in Addis. The countryside is more regionalized as to religion depending on the tribe. Ethiopia is untouched and unspoiled by civilization in the country. THe tribes wear what they always have -- either naked, loin cloths, it is quite remarkable. Some places they have never encountered foreignors. This is definitely the most remarkable place I have ever been. But also the hardest. Very very safe. If you break the law as a foreignor, they will just ship you out. you will never be jailed or killed. Great group of expats.

Anyhow, I was there as a single woman, and felt safe everywhere. Well, I could go on and on. If there is anything specific I could answer let me know.

[danmews]

Forgot this part.

If you are provided housing, that's great. Then you need about 3-5000 ETB per month to live well. If you want to go out once and awhile, etc.

If you don't have housing you want between 10 and 15,000 birr per month.

Or you will be living horribly. If you can get more than that it would be best. Just a point of reference -- doctors in Addis make about 1,500 ETB per month. Teachers in schools -- about 300 - 600 ETB per month. They get cheaper prices everywhere than foreignors, but they also live all together -- families, in very small places, most without kitchens and bathrooms. They have neighborhoods (called villages) in addis, where everyone shares a pantry and kitchen -- cooking outside. NO refrigeration.

IN times of drought there are many cutbacks in electricity -- we had 2 days a week - 6 a.m. to 10 p.m. without electricity. Ethiopians refer to electricity as lights. When they say there are no lights -- it means no electricity.

Take amharic lessons -- it isn't that hard, and really helpful to be able to communicate even in the most basic way.

There are internet cafes. Internet is horrible and slow there. And expensive. Best place is to register with the WOrld Bank and you can get 2 hours free a month, and it's via satellite. THe only satellite in the country.

It is difficult to make long distance calls if you don't have a phone. The businesses that offer it close early (if you are working) and are really crowded.

Take every bit of money you will need -- there is no visa accepted anywhere (exception HIlton and Sheraton). Also there is only one bank that will give you an advance on a visa of up to $200 -- that is it. So unless you open a bank account and have someone do transfers for you, it is almost impossible to get any money. Take US cash. UK pounds are ok too. I wouldn't take anythign else, you'll ahve a hard time getting it exchanged. Make sure the bills are in good shape as well -- crisp. The banks can't sell it if it's not, and they may not accept it for foreign exchange. No low denomiations either. $20 is the lowest.

[treepic]

Hi damnews,

I'm moving to Addis Ababa in August. I'll be there for two years. How is it to buy clothing for women there? I'm also wondering about keeping fit while I'm there... any suggestions?
Many thanks,

Treepic

[danmews]

You can buy clothes in Addis easily, there are some fairly nice shops along the Bole Road (main road coming in from the airport.) There isn't a huge selection in the stores, but it is no problem at all to get clothes. Prices are good too, but depending on how much you are making you may not want to buy too much.

There is good shopping in the piazza area (sort of their downtown core) and for the largest outdoor market in Africa -- there is the mercato. Don't go alone to the mercato -- lots of pickpockets and it is a gigantic maze. Best to go there with an Ethiopian. In fact for all your shopping it is easier -- there is a bit of haggling required and an Ethiopian knows when you are being ridiculously gouged right off the bat.

Lots of shoes too, but you will find the quality isn't great. Take some really good shoes with you -- the roads are really hard on footwear -- rocky and bumpy -- and if you have thin soles it really hurts your feet to walk.

Ethiopians don't have alot of clothes, people might have only a few outfits so don't feel like you need alot there. Generally you cover up when walking around the streets -- I wouldn't wear shorts and really revealing tops -- althoaugh if you go into nightclubs the women aren't wearing much. But during the day, most people are covered up -- protects you from the dust and sun anyhow. If you want a good rainjacket you are best to take it with you. Make sure you have an umbrella.

Rainy season -- May - October -- it's a mudbath. Trekking shoes are great. You should probably take them with you.

There is a great market once a month -- it raises money for non-profits and you can get some good stuff. It is in the Vatican area, at a church. I'll have to check my notes on the exact location, but if you ask around everyone will know.

You can't buy pillows in Ethiopia. They chip up foam, and it is quite lumpy, so if you like good bedding -- I would take it with you. I brought pillows in from Dubai after 4 months there. A feather pillow packs up really small if you put in a bag, suck the air out of it and wrap it tightly in tape or twine. Doesn't weigh much either.

When I was there it was difficult to find CD players -- they still use alot of tapes. I don't trust alot of their electronic stores -- even in Piazza -- I tend to think they frig around with electronic stuff. Lots of pirate acitcvities in terms of CD's and VCR's -- you can take any CD in to a shop and they'll copy it for you. Kind of funny. VCR is the same as North America -- UK don't work.

Anyhow, as far as working out -- there are gyms in a few of the hotels. There is a good gym on Bole owned by the Olympic gold medalist Haile, you often see him running in town. Lots of great Ethiopian runners -- probably because it is 8000 feet above sea level and when you first get there it's hard to even climb stairs. Pretty good training. I could barely run there, and I went to Kenya with the running club at Easter and I could run like the wind -- being back at sea level -- then I didn't feel so bad that I walked most of the time in Addis -- it was still great conditioning.

Speaking of the running club: On Saturday the Addis Ababa Hash House Harrier running club meets at the Hilton -- I think at 2:30 - 3 p.m. timeframe. Can't remember quite. Anyhow it is a great mix of ex-pats and Ethiopians, and they go out into the mountains surrounding Addis for runs each Saturday, then they have beers somewhere. Usually there is enough transportation for everyone. It is a mix of walkers, moderate runners and then strong runners, so easy to find a spot to go in with. They go on weekend trips from time to time, everything is arranged -- transportation food etc. and it is great to see the surrounding areas -- like Ambo, Zuquala, etc. Also there is a great hike up behind the British Embassy to the underground church and Italian fort.

Walking anyhow is great to keep in shape. People don't do alot of it there, but just to walk around the town can take up hours. And is very interesting.

Hope this helps, if there is anything else please let me know! I'll have to look up some details on the best restaurants etc. especially things that are hidden away, but worthwhile.

[danmews]

When I read that posting, I'm not sure who referenced the chicken it made me laugh -- as it reminded me of the following.

There is a Korean restaurant on the Bole Road in Addis. And it is very good. Quite an extensive menu.

They had a Korean Chicken dish advertised. My friend asked the waiter, "How is the Korean Chicken done?"

The waiter replied seriously "Actually it is an Ethiopian Chicken, done in a Korean style."

We could barely contain our laughter until he walked away. It was very cute.

[treepic]

Thanks so much Danmews for all of that information it helps a lot. Good to know about the bedding situation, I was wondering about that. I'd be happy to hear about anything more you have to say about living in Addis so if you feel like posting more I'd appreciate it.

Treepic

[danmews]

A good travel agent:
Betty -- Abadir Travel & Tours Tel: 15 76 08 Mobile: (09) 25 26 75
Email: [email protected] -- On the Bole Road

Alternative: LifeLine Travel Bole Road -- 2nd floor
Agent: Selam 61 41 55

once you get your residency papers you can fly on Ethiopian airlines for 1/2 the rate an outsider can. YOu have to pay in Birr, not credit card, but it is worth it.

Taking the bus to the country is okay for short distances (but even 120 kilometers can take 4 - 6 hours), but to places like Lalibella (600 km) it will take a full day and a half. It is very hard -- you will never get anyone to open a window, every seat is full. They are uncomfortable. When you take a bus from the depot in Addis it doesn't leave until it is full. SO you can sit there on the bus for a couple of hours sometimes before it departs. There are two depots -- for long distance near the Mercato and shorter distances on Bole Road. Book a taxi in advance to take you there (as you need to leave really early in the morning -- there are no night buses -- it's illegal there -- and they can take you to the right one.) If you need a taxi to pick you up at your home late at night or early in the morning you should book the day earlier.


So flying or hiring a car and driver is way better for exploring the countryside. A driver is about $100 US per day. If there are three people or so it is really affordable as hotels and food are so cheap.

I wouldn't recommend the train -- it only goes from Addis to Awash (and on to Djoubiti) anyhow, and takes longer than the bus. COuld be fun if you are with a group, for the unique experience, but it is very uncomfortable. I wouldn't do it alone -- you should always be watching your bags. Ethiopia is a really safe place, and many women backpackers go it alone -- there is no trouble. But although an Ethiopian would be unlikely to cause you physical harm, they will steal if it is visible. Just be assured they won't hit you over the head to take anything.

Best driver in Addis: Johannes Teshome
Tel: MObile 09-21 38 27 or landline 50 03 63
(Tell him you were referred by Katherine!)
He knows alot, speaks English really well, and drives safely!

THis is one of the most amazing countries I have ever been too. No tourists -- everything so unspoiled. Tribes living in their original way. Lalibela, Gondar -- all the north is amazing. Awash to the west is really interesting as well -- we were stopped by the Afar tribe -- they were all wearing loin cloths and had rifles and knives. They had killed a Kudu (antelope) and were carrying parts of it over their shoulders. Unfortunately it was poaching, which is illegal, and we were with a park ranger. The ranger in our jeep got his rifle ready to fire. I don't believe the Afar would kill a foreignor, but I wasn't keen on being caught in the cross-fire. Anyhow it was frightening, but no bullets were fired. Amazing hot springs here. Insist on going up to the crater! The other tribe here is the Kereyu. Unfortunately the Afar and the Kereyu are suffering horribly -- hit hard by drought and famine.

Awassa and Arba Minch to the south are great too. There are good times to go, so you have to wait sometimes for when roads are passable etc. but if you have enough time to plan you can get everywhere. Awassa had a big supplementary feeding program going on when I was there. Heartbreaking. Another region hard hit by famine. Interesting because it is so tropical, all the bananas are grown here, etc. It is very green and lush -- but there is something about when things are green -- poor timing for crops etc.

When you travel anywhere in the country I wouldn't give children money. Give them pencils, pens, notebooks, books, hats, t-shirts, shoes, etc. They can't get this stuff and it is like gold for them. The kids make a bit of money selling kleenex packs and gum. I think it is nice to buy them, and then give them out to kids as well. They can choose to re-sell it.

Which reminds me -- in Addis -- as far as begging on the street. Anyone who starts talking to you on the street wants something from you. No matter how nice you think the conversation is, at the end they will ask you for something: money for a medical they need, etc. etc. Men all want to marry you (to get out of the country). I would ignore COMPLETELY any men that come up to you. Or tell them to get lost (you will learn the Amharic words quickly for this) Teenage boys, etc. No matter how rude you think it is. Little kids -- i try to give them food. Also, if you have some specific people you like to give money to on a continuous basis -- it's better if they are not close to your home. Then you won't have to walk by them all the time when you don't want to give out money.

I have to look at my book for more details on what is good to do for a weekend -- easy to get to, and interesting.

Also, if you like to read -- take books! They are hard to get and expensive. Library at British Embassy, but the books aren't great there even and you have to be a member, or with a member to get in. Magazines are unheard of! Have a network of friends set up outside the country that can send you things -- books, specific medications, etc.

Will write later on the Post Office hardships and Internet etc.
When do you leave?

[treepic]

I leave sometime in early August. Thanks for all of that info, it's very interesting. Did you study Amharic? I was thinking about taking a course at the university-do you know anything about that?
treepic