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[ondine]

Salaam-ualekum (sp)
Hello,
I have enrolled in a 4 week 120 hour TEFL course in Alexandria, Egypt for late Oct-NOv and I'm thinking of doing some traveling around Egypt as well, after my course. Can anyone give me any useful advice on what to expect, what to avoid etc. in the streets? I'd like to avoid calling attention to myself too much, as I've read that I can expect much harrassment and "verbal abuse." Just how conservative should I be? cover ankes, elbows, no pants? All of my shoes are wacky platform shoes. Should I buy flat sandals? Is it ill-advised that I travel alone? I am distinctively non-Middle eastern, even if I wear shades and my hair back. Should I never pause and respond to a male who is saying something to me?
I've been doing a lot of looking online and see bits and pieces of (contradictory) info. Any help at all would be much appreciated.
Thanks!
Ondine

[veiledsentiments]

Hi Ondine,

Well actually there is nothing that you can really do to avoid attracting attention to yourself if you are obviously not an Egyptian. The actions of past female visitors to Egypt and TV/movies has guaranteed that all the men know exactly what to expect from loose Western women. When I first moved to Egypt some years ago I used to have to walk through Tahrir Square every day, and it didn't take long before one could just ignore the male silliness surrounding you. It reminded me of having to pass big construction sites in the US with all the men showing off for each other in a pretence of getting your attention. It is all rather good natured (unlike the hard staring of places like India where you wonder if they hate you). I would never respond to the calls of Ya Asal, Ya Helwa and accompanying kissy noises any more than I responded to the wolf whistles and Hey honey, Hey beautiful from those construction workers.

Other than irritating it is not dangerous. It is rare that someone touches you, but if they do, start screaming at them. I guarantee that others will come to your rescue immediately and upbraid the offender. Touching an unrelated woman is considered unacceptable behaviour. When you arrive there, have some of the Egyptians at your school teach you what to say to these fellows if they become too forward. After a few years in Cairo, I could shame them to tears!! The only times I was ever touched by an unknown male was invariably by 11-14 year old boys - beware of passing through crowds of them just as they get out of school. The age group tends to be a problem everywhere I think - too much showing off for their mates.

I always tried to dress conservatively. Leave those platform shoes at home as you will break your ankles on the unrepaired streets and sidewalks - and they are all unrepaired. Bring comfortable flat shoes - sandals and runners. Pants and/or jeans are fine, but I always wore long blousy tops so as to appear shapeless. Sleeves are best to the elbow at least. There are many nice full length skirts (broomsticks for example) which are comfortable, stylish and culturally perfect. The temps will be variable at this time, so you need clothes for both hot and cool.

As to added danger by being American these days, none of my friends who live there have noted any change, but I would not broadcast my nationality. Not that I ever did anyway. I have always found in the Middle East that people understood that I had as little control of my country's foreign policy as they did of theirs. But, our government seems dedicated to making the world as dangerous as possible for us. It has always been easy for me to make clear my disagreement with their policies and if you should happen to be a major supporter of the current administration, I wouldn't say it to anyone.

Other than that, common sense should keep you safe. Avoid/take care talking to strange men on the street in Egypt the same as everywhere else in the world. It most always tends not to be a good idea.

I am sure you will have a great time. Be sure to pack your patience!!

VS

[ondine]

Hey Thanks, Veiled Sentiments, I was hoping I'd hear from you...you're the coolest! I'll pack my patience and leave my paranoia behind. I caught a lot of flack in Buenos Aires in the streets in 97 (puta/*beep*), eventually I started wearing earphones. It may be different in degree, not kind in Egypt. I'll watch those runts, too.

Much obliged!
Nymphondine