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crazylemongirl

Joined: 23 Mar 2003 Location: almost there...
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Posted: Wed Apr 05, 2006 8:14 pm Post subject: Cambodia for 2 weeks -tips |
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So I'm off to cambodia in August (yes I know rainy season).
Flying in and out of the capital. Wondering how long it's worth hanging around there.
Obviously I'm going to Siem Reap for Angkor.
Really want to go down to see Bokor Hill and Kep.
Is Battambang worth a look on my timeframe?
Places to stay, and any other tips most greatly appreciated. |
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VanIslander

Joined: 18 Aug 2003 Location: Geoje, Hadong, Tongyeong,... now in a small coastal island town outside Gyeongsangnamdo!
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Posted: Wed Apr 05, 2006 9:08 pm Post subject: |
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Travel with at least one other foreigner and make it a man.
By all accounts, it's not a place for a person to travel alone.
The roads outside the capital are dangerous enough even in groups.
Very tempting...
I researched Cambodia a bit, and still might go soon. Though Laos and the central asian 'stans are starting to hold more of an appeal for their relatively less touristy natures.
But the trips to Angkor are safe and packaged, sterile even. Over a thousand foreigners visit Angkor every day. You'll be tripping over others there, literally. It's become a sort of Dysneyland for the Indiana Jones/Lara Croft archeologically-fascinated set.
To each their own!
Sounds like you might bust outta Disneyworld and wrestle some 'gators in the glades, to paraphrase a bad t.v. show. |
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LarrytheGiraffee

Joined: 12 Feb 2006
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Posted: Wed Apr 05, 2006 10:43 pm Post subject: |
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I traveled in Cambodia alone and I never had a problem.
Just a few basic tips. The best way to get to Siem Riep from the capital is by boat. Its about a 6-8 hour ride but it beats the bumpy roads.
You can do Angkor in one long day if you do it right. Well really you can go to the park the evening before (if I remember right, its at about 4:45 or 5:45). You can buy your pass for the next morning and this allows you to get in that evening, as well, to see the sunset. If you are back by sunrise the next day and you hire a motorcycle driver to take you around, then there isnt anything you cant see in that day. |
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huffdaddy
Joined: 25 Nov 2005
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Posted: Thu Apr 06, 2006 7:22 am Post subject: |
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I spent about three weeks in Cambodia near the end of 2004. I did it all on bicycle, so I can't help you much with transportation details (unless you want to bicycle everywhere as well). I never felt unsafe or had any problems there. Your greatest danger is probably the transportation. I'd highly recommend avoiding the rental motor bike craze, unless you are an experienced rider. If you think they drive bad in Korea... FWIW, I found one stoplight outside of Phenom Phen, and that was in Siem Reap. And they don't pay attention to them anways. Anyways, Two weeks should give you plenty of time to see all the majors plus a few out-of-the-way places.
Phnom Penh is nothing special, but give it a couple days to meet people and gather information or possible travel partners. There are a few things to see in and around town, such as the Killing Fields, the school/prison (forget the name, but it's well known), a couple wats, and the Mekong.
Siem Reap is definitely a tourist mecca. You can see all the major temples in one day, but I'd recommend the 3 day pass. Afterall, it will probably be the only time in your life you get a chance to see them. There are a lot of temples, spread out over a large area. And with rainy season, you might need to work around the downpours. That, and you'll be able to take some relaxing breaks with the friendly vendors swarming all over you. I rode my bike around the temples, which allowed me a lot more freedom then being hauled around by a driver. You can rent bicycles in Siem Reap. There are plenty of maps and guides to the temples in town.
I visited Kep and Kampot, but they didn't seem very enticing. Didn't look like any other backpackers were around either.
Sihanoukville is okay. The beaches aren't great, but not too crowded. The girls selling fruit are as annoying as *beep*.
Kampot is a relaxing little town, with some cool expats. This is where you'll get the tour up to Bokor. Bokor is definitely worth it. Incredible. You can spend the night up there as well, which sounds interesting.
Battambang is nothing amazing, but it's a nice respite from the tourist infested areas of PP and SR. There's still some backpackers around, but it's definitely a more realistic picture of Cambodia.
There are a lot of other little towns that hardly ever see tourists, except for tour buses and the occasional bicyclist. These are great places to relax, watch people, and enjoy Cambodian culture. Pursat, Sisophon, Kra Lanh to name a few. Not sure about the logistics of getting in and out, unless you want to be stuck with Khmer transportation (and you don't).
I took the Siem Reap-Battambang ferry, which was well worth the price. Lots of fishing villages consisting of shacks built over the water. Amazing scenary. I'm not sure what the PP-SR ferry is like though, it looks like mostly travelling over the Tonle Sap. The SR-B ferry was supposed to last about 4 hours, but I think it stretched to 7 or 8 hours due to the water levels. So the PP-SR journey make take longer as well. Check with other travelers.
In summary, I'd say the must sees are Phnom Pehn, Angkor, and Bokor. Strongly suggest the ferry (SR-Battambang, SR-PP conditionally). I'd also stongly suggest a couple smaller towns outside the mainstream.
Oh, and don't forget to have some pinneapples and the squeezed sugar cane. Yummm.
That's about all I remember right now.
You can read my blog posts here |
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huffdaddy
Joined: 25 Nov 2005
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Posted: Thu Apr 06, 2006 7:33 am Post subject: |
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VanIslander wrote: |
I researched Cambodia a bit, and still might go soon. Though Laos and the central asian 'stans are starting to hold more of an appeal for their relatively less touristy natures.
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Laos is definitely touristy. It's the least visited of the countries in the region (including Thailand, Vietnam, and Cambodia), but it gets its fair share of backpackers.
The stans are definitely off the beaten path, but there are still lots of German, Japanese, and the occasional Korean tour groups. I have info on Uzbekland if you're ever interested. |
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crazylemongirl

Joined: 23 Mar 2003 Location: almost there...
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Posted: Thu Apr 06, 2006 4:02 pm Post subject: |
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Huffdaddy,
Thanks for that. I was planning at least 5 days in Siem Reap, doing Angkor at a slow pace and adding in a few side trips from there. Will take the Siem Reap-Battambang ferry. Think I'll give Sihanoukville a miss as in terms of time I can go to other country's beaches and I think there are more interesting things to see in the country.
The main reason to go to Kampot was for Bokor. |
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justagirl

Joined: 17 Jan 2003 Location: Cheonan/Portland
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Posted: Thu Apr 06, 2006 4:39 pm Post subject: |
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Siem Reap area is worth doing 5 days at. Anyone who does the temples in 1 day is really missing out on a lot...unless they just like to jet around so they can "get all the temples in."
I prefered to sit and soak in the awe and amazement of the sites. Plus, Siem Reap is just a cool little town to relax in for a while. Definitely get foot massages! Only $4/hour and so worth it...I just wish I hadn't figured out their value until my last night there! I tried a Thai massage for about $8/hour, too, and it was quite enjoyable.
Try to stay near the old market. I can't remember the name of the place I was at, but it was across the main street from the old market area, but within 5 minutes walking distance. It was set off from the road so it was quiet, but it had a great location being right on the main drag from town (though the opposite side of the street where the old market area is)...hope that all made sense.
Enjoy your trip--I'd go back to Cambodia in a heartbeat!
justagirl |
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crazylemongirl

Joined: 23 Mar 2003 Location: almost there...
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Posted: Thu Apr 06, 2006 7:30 pm Post subject: |
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Thanks for the tip Just a Girl. I was planning 5 days in Siem Reap anyway. I though I might hire the driver you suggested in a previous post for some of the time and do some riding for some of it. I haven't driven a motorcycle before so may just stick to pedals of 4wheelers if they hav them.
Tentative Itineary is
Phenom Pen 2-3 Days.
Kampot 2 days return to Phenom hen for overnight rest.
Head up to Siem Reap for 5 or so days.
Head down to Battambang via the ferry for a few days with a side trip there maybe before heading back to Phenom Pen for my flight. |
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indytrucks

Joined: 09 Apr 2003 Location: The Shelf
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Posted: Thu Apr 06, 2006 7:35 pm Post subject: |
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I'm headed Siem Reap way this summer as well. I was last in Cambo maybe 4-5 years ago, and from what people tell me it's changed quite a bit. Last time there we did the siem Reap - PP - Sihanoukville circuit then back into Thailand to Koh Chang. I didn't quite like PP, SV was okay and SR/Angkor was awesome, but too many tourists. Did the 3 days pass last time, gonna do 5 days this time and hire a push bike. Last time we hired a car, and I think I'd prefer the freedom of a bike this time. I'm also hoping tourist numbers might be less ... last time we went at Xmas, peak holiday time. |
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crazylemongirl

Joined: 23 Mar 2003 Location: almost there...
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Posted: Thu Apr 06, 2006 10:12 pm Post subject: |
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Thanks for that. I think the best way to see it angkor might be to do a combo of ways. Bikes/drivers/foot.
As for places the 'old market' area is good in Siem Reap? Anyone got anymore specific?
In PP thinking of staying by the river. |
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indytrucks

Joined: 09 Apr 2003 Location: The Shelf
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Posted: Thu Apr 06, 2006 11:09 pm Post subject: |
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This is what I mean when I say people tell me SR has changed ... last I was there, there was only one market, smack in the middle of the town. Someone told me that they moved the market just outside of town, which is too bad, but if the the "old market" means what I think it does, that means the location is good. Loads of restaurants, guest houses and pubs are(were?) concentrated around there.
In PP we got touted pretty hard off the boat (who didn't?) and ended up staying near the lake ... there's a row of $5 a night guest houses there like Simon's and Same Same but Different. Okay if you're really counting your pennies, but some of the cl | | |