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bosintang

Joined: 01 Dec 2003 Location: In the pot with the rest of the mutts
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Posted: Tue Dec 06, 2005 3:27 am Post subject: Tales from Vietnam |
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After a couple of days here in Vietnam, I'll never complain about Korean behaviour ever again. Thus far, almost everyone I've had to deal with so far in Vietnam have been completely difficult and even dishonest. It's the most difficult country I've ever traveled in.
I crossed a recently opened border between Laos and Vietnam, and the towns on neither side have had much experience with the rest of the world before. On the Laos side, people watched me with idle curiousity and perhaps a bit of fear, but it was never threatening or overly-intrusive.
The Vietnamese side was a completely different story. After a bizarre wait at a beauracratic border, I had to take a motorcycle ride 25km over a horrendous, but very scenic mountain pass to the nearest town. Passing through villages and then into the town, it was like I was an alien from a different planet who was dropped off from space into the town, full of endless amusement for the locals. Everyone stopped whatever they were doing to say something to me (mostly just "hellos") and show off. The locals didn't know what american dollars were worth, there was nowhere to change money, absolutely noone spoke any English at all, and coffee was an exotic drink that none of the restaurants had available.
At first the attention was amusing, but the novelty of being the alien in town wore off quite quickly. Children followed me making "round-eye" motions at me, and adults stared at me the whole time and laughed and taunted me. The worst was a group of Vietnamese men in the restaurant I was stuck in for the afternoon who were showing off and trying to force rice wine down my throat, that tasted, suspiciously, exactly like soju.
Nobody tired of the staring games for a few hours until finally a Vietnamese soccer game came on tv to take some of the attention away from me. As the day passed, and the locals were getting more drunk and aggressive, and it appeared that Vietnam was losing the game, I wanted to get the hell out of this dustbowl shithole of a town; however I had to wait until the soccer game finished until the mini-bus was leaving for Vinh.
A few hours in an awful town in Vietnam full of awful people, and I immediately missed the friendliness and honesty of the people of Laos. Lets just say that between the two countries, the Vietnamese demonstrate the more masculine qualities towards foreigners. Basically, I saw a glimpse of what traveling around rural China would be like, and I've came to the conclusion that it would be pure insanity to try it without good Chinese skills and infinite patience. Those of you who've done it and succeeded, I salute you, I really do.
Last edited by bosintang on Thu Dec 08, 2005 6:30 am; edited 1 time in total |
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bosintang

Joined: 01 Dec 2003 Location: In the pot with the rest of the mutts
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Posted: Tue Dec 06, 2005 3:43 am Post subject: |
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By the way, Hanoi is an awsome city. The Old Quarter in the city is very charming and trendy, and the city has a fraction of the tourists that Bangkok has. It's the most exotic and interesting city I've visited in Asia so far. Too bad it's full of Vietnamese, haha. |
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desultude

Joined: 15 Jan 2003 Location: Dangling my toes in the Persian Gulf
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Posted: Tue Dec 06, 2005 4:53 am Post subject: Re: Vietnam -- I'll never complain about Korean xenophobia a |
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bosintang wrote: |
After a couple of days here in Vietnam, I'll never complain about Korean behaviour ever again. Thus far, almost everyone I've had to deal with so far in Vietnam have been completely difficult and even dishonest. It's the most difficult country I've ever traveled in.
I crossed a recently opened border between Laos and Vietnam, and the towns on neither side have had much experience with the rest of the world before. On the Laos side, people watched me with idle curiousity and perhaps a bit of fear, but it was never threatening or overly-intrusive.
The Vietnamese side was a completely different story. After a bizarre wait at a beauracratic border, I had to take a motorcycle ride 25km over a horrendous, but very scenic mountain pass to the nearest town. Passing through villages and then into the town, it was like I was an alien from a different planet who was dropped off from space into the town, full of endless amusement for the locals. Everyone stopped whatever they were doing to say something to me (mostly just "hellos") and show off. The locals didn't know what american dollars were worth, there was nowhere to change money, absolutely noone spoke any English at all, and coffee was an exotic drink that none of the restaurants had available.
At first the attention was amusing, but the novelty of being the alien in town wore off quite quickly. Children followed me making "round-eye" motions at me, and adults stared at me the whole time and laughed and taunted me. The worst was a group of Vietnamese men in the restaurant I was stuck in for the afternoon who were showing off and trying to force rice wine down my throat, that tasted, suspiciously, exactly like soju.
Nobody tired of the staring games for a few hours until finally a Vietnamese soccer game came on tv to take some of the attention away from me. As the day passed, and the locals were getting more drunk and aggressive, and it appeared that Vietnam was losing the game, I wanted to get the hell out of this dustbowl *beep* of a town; however I had to wait until the soccer game finished until the mini-bus was leaving for Vinh.
A few hours in an awful town in Vietnam full of awful people, and I immediately missed the friendliness and honesty of the people of Laos. Lets just say that between the two countries, the Vietnamese demonstrate the more masculine qualities towards foreigners. Basically, I saw a glimpse of what traveling around rural China would be like, and I've came to the conclusion that it would be pure insanity to try it without good Chinese skills and infinite patience. Those of you who've done it and succeeded, I salute you, I really do. |
Well-traveled, are you? I mean, how in hell can a distant town that is near a recently opened border with Laos survive without the king's English? And then forcing you to share their liquor.
Sorry (not really) for the sarcasm, but if you don't want to be challenged, there are plenty of nice safe places in the world. You get off the beaten path, and things will be, well, a bit exotic and sometimes difficult.
Yeah, it's really too bad the beautiful places of Viet Nam are filled with the Vietnamese- go figure.  |
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bosintang

Joined: 01 Dec 2003 Location: In the pot with the rest of the mutts
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Posted: Tue Dec 06, 2005 6:06 am Post subject: Re: Vietnam -- I'll never complain about Korean xenophobia a |
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desultude wrote: |
Well-traveled, are you? I mean, how in hell can a distant town that is near a recently opened border with Laos survive without the king's English? And then forcing you to share their liquor.
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I certainly don't expect everyone to speak English, but at the same time it doesn't make for pleasant travel when you can't speak the language of absolutely anyone around you including people you have to deal with.
It's not that these guys shared their liquor with me, that was awful. It was the overly-aggressiveness and one-upmanship that I must drink it. It wasn't the curiousity, it was the overly-aggressive staring and mocking of me that was awful. It was the over-charging, not giving me proper change on my money, and trying to rip me off my money that was awful. I couldn't help but think that these people have no tourists yet and already they're assholes about money.
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Sorry (not really) for the sarcasm, but if you don't want to be challenged, there are plenty of nice safe places in the world. You get off the beaten path, and things will be, well, a bit exotic and sometimes difficult.
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Hey, I live for these kind of adventures. The worse a town is, the more I almost enjoy it; a bit of travelers' masochism, I suppose. I'll still call a spade a spade, and when a town is awful, I'll say so.
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Yeah, it's really too bad the beautiful places of Viet Nam are filled with the Vietnamese- go figure.  |
I was being sarcastic when I said there were too many Vietnamese in Vietnam, but anyone who's traveled to Vietnam would surely agree that many of the locals can be very difficult to deal with at times, especially when it comes to money and dishonesty? I do remember you mentioning at one time about your hotel trying to overcharge you. It's not that this happens that is bothering, it's the frequency that it happens, which so far seems to be literally every time I've had to make a financial transaction outside of the restaurants I've eaten in. Today I spent literally the whole day fighting over mistransactions over plane and train tickets.
But whatever, from the Vietnamese point of view, it won't exactly encourage tourism, but they'll make a quick buck. From my point of view,it makes a good story for me. |
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ed4444

Joined: 12 Oct 2004
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Posted: Tue Dec 06, 2005 6:55 am Post subject: |
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I have travelled into the depths of Vietnam and China. Actually it is hard to get into the depths of Vietnam because it is too narrow but anyway.
Yes. The Chinese countryside is difficult to navigate through. On the other hand it is also very rewarding. I managed 6 days in a row without seeing one non-east asian face at one stage.
I don't speak Chinese. I just stored pictures of everything I might need on a digital camera and pointed to them when necessary. |
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Tiger Beer

Joined: 07 Feb 2003
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Posted: Tue Dec 06, 2005 9:15 am Post subject: |
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I've always thought of Vietnamese as very similar to Koreans actually.
Except of course the Vietnamese are a 1000 times more cunning.. but work-ethics, education being so important, confucianism, Chinese influence, split country from Cold War politics, imperial aggressive neighbors with a strong distrust of, etc. is all similar.
Korean films and music are all the rage down there as well.. |
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jajdude
Joined: 18 Jan 2003
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Posted: Tue Dec 06, 2005 9:30 am Post subject: |
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Where was that bosintang?
Anyway, out of my limited travels, the VNese were definitely the most dishonest! They rip off foreigners proudly. The country has a bad rep for that. Watch your cash there.
Also negotiation works, as I am sure you know. Several times I said "nope" to a charge, let's say of 20 bucks for convenience sake, and walked away, to be called back with, "Ok, 15,.... maybe 10."
(one specific example: A hotel wanted 40 bucks... yeah right, I paid under 20... still expensive for Vn though and they probably laughed about the few bucks profit they made anyway)
VN.... what a weird place.
(no denying the female aspect though.... and good cheap food... also miss cheap nights out drinking and easy socializing with people from wherever, unlike Korea.... VN has its good points.) |
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deessell

Joined: 08 Jun 2005
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Posted: Tue Dec 06, 2005 3:01 pm Post subject: |
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OP were you wearing Thai Fisherman Pants? Maybe that's why they were laughing at you! |
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bosintang

Joined: 01 Dec 2003 Location: In the pot with the rest of the mutts
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Posted: Tue Dec 06, 2005 9:38 pm Post subject: |
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Tiger Beer wrote: |
I've always thought of Vietnamese as very similar to Koreans actually.
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Yep! And that was my point that got lost in my story...Passing through the town of Muang Xen (not on the tourist map yet, it will be once the road is paved now that the border is open), I couldn't help but wonder if people were identical to these people in towns in Korea 20-30 years ago.
Tigerbeer wrote: |
Except of course the Vietnamese are a 1000 times more cunning.. but work-ethics, education being so important, confucianism, Chinese influence, split country from Cold War politics, imperial aggressive neighbors with a strong distrust of, etc. is all similar.
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This is true..I can't deny that if anyone has the right to be xenophobic and mistrustful of foreigners, it's the Vietnamese. They're a strong, proud culture, that was severely threatened in recent history by people who looked, acted, and felt just like me.
jajdude wrote: |
(no denying the female aspect though.... and good cheap food... also miss cheap nights out drinking and easy socializing with people from wherever, unlike Korea.... VN has its good points.)
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Yep..My OP was too hard on Vietnam. Great food, beautiful women, beautiful scenery, cheap beer. Hanoi is a wonderful city, and the people are lively and ambitious (perhaps a little overly so).
deesell wrote: |
OP were you wearing Thai Fisherman Pants? Maybe that's why they were laughing at you!
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Haha, god no. I absolutely refuse to weer a 'Beer Laos' and 'Same Same but Different' t-shirts, fisherman pants, sarongs, or whatever. I'm a very conservative dresser, especially when I cross border checkpoints, and pass through towns where I'm going to draw attention. As far as my source of amusement goes, *everything* about me was amusing, from my big round eyes to the fact that I'm quite tall (193cm), to the fact that I'm left-handed, to the fact that I eat noodles and drink coffee. |
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dbee
Joined: 29 Dec 2004 Location: korea
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Posted: Wed Dec 07, 2005 1:36 am Post subject: |
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The vietnamese take dishonesty, bare-faced lying and price gouging to a whole new level. I've been around most of Asia and I spent a month in vietnam, and I can say that I've never seen anywhere in the world as bad as vietnam. It made India look positively timid. You can get ripped off anywhere, but only in vietnam will they make a point of laughing about it in your face.
It's not just the backpacking crowd that get done over either. Most big businesses won't touch the place with a bargepole. I think it was the hilton group of hotels that set up a new outpost in vietnam, and then had to shut it down after about a year. Simply because everyone who had a hand, had it in their pocket over there. It's a pity really because being one of the world's poorest countries with a large and reasonably educated workforce, it's in a position to make a killing, if it had a little foreign investment.
On the otherhand though, I think it was one of the places I had the fondest memories of. It's an amazing country, and the people are usually great (... as long as money isn't involved in the conversation). The whole country has an enormous energy to it - hanoi is an amazing city. While the principal of paying way over the odd's probably goes against the whole backpacker ethos, the reality is that you're probably losing less than a dollar american.
I really don't buy the whole vietnamese as historical victims story either. From what I saw they couldn't have cared less who they were gouging - Indians, Americans, Europeans, Koreans etc... Every vietnamese person I met said that they love Americans, in part I suspect, because they find it easier to con them.
I remember hearing the story about the guy who went over there with a native vietnamese friend from his home country. They were at some type of market over the tet new year. The announcement over the tanoy speakers went something like this ... 'vietnamese people, to celebrate the wonderous event of tet - let's not try to trick and con each other. Instead, let's all try especially hard to gouge the foreigners'. |
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deessell

Joined: 08 Jun 2005
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Posted: Wed Dec 07, 2005 2:15 am Post subject: |
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The Vietnamese have a special word for backpackers, they call them Taybalo. It means foreigner with bag on back. To the Vietnamese people they are the lowest of the low. They wonder why people from a rich country would travel in such a way, wearing dirty clothes and carrying their possessions around. The majority of Vietnamese meet these such people and they feel no qualms about ripping them off. These taybalow's will usually argue over the smallest amount of money, so it becomes a game to the sellers.
In Vietnam money is everything. To get a good job you have to buy it. A job as an flight attendant with Vietnam Airlines costs about $15,000 US. They want money badly. I am not defending them, just pointing out how life is in Vietnam. If you are stopped by the police it will automatically cost you 50,000 dong ($4.20). If you are have a business and you deal with foreigners, the police will know and they will demand a cut.
It is a country where the average monthly earnings are $50. On the good side you can be assured that the money that they have gouged from us is going to a good cause. They are very carefull with their money and are spending their money on education for their children, which includes English lessons for their children (which is good for us teachers). Vietnamese are very bright students and learn well. There are so many students who are being educated abroad. Maybe the future will be different. Vietnamese (especially Hanoians) are not flash, there is not too much bling bling there. |
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Homer Guest
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Posted: Wed Dec 07, 2005 4:56 am Post subject: |
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Some people need to read up on the meaning of travelling...
I agree with desultude you have to live with the travel choices you make.
If you want a non-challenging trip go to some high density western tourist spot.
Vietnam (having been there 3 times now) is not that at all and one read of a lonely planet guide will clue anyone in.
They don't speak English or drink coffee! Oh my..the savages!
They try and share a drink with a complete stranger...my lord...the cruelty of it all...
They stare at a westerner in a small, out of the way, border village/town...well..thats just horrible..call Amnesty International.
Travelling is about new experiences and about getting out of your familiar shell. My wife and I went to Laos and to Tibet a few years ago. We did not expect English or Korean to be heard all round and people not to stare. Thats part of the deal when you travel I think. |
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bosintang

Joined: 01 Dec 2003 Location: In the pot with the rest of the mutts
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Posted: Wed Dec 07, 2005 5:20 am Post subject: |
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Well, thank you Homer for your, as per usual, wonderful insight and lack of sarcasm that's so characteristic of your posts.
I apologize for not thinking that everwhere I travel to is Utopia.
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They don't speak English or drink coffee! Oh my..the savages! |
Yes you're right Homer, coffee is a rare and exotic drink in Vietnam. I was silly for thinking that at least one restaurant out of the dozens in town would carry it. I'm also culturally insensitive for thinking that they should be honest when dealing with money.
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Vietnam (having been there 3 times now) is not that at all and one read of a lonely planet guide will clue anyone in. |
Actually the place I described was nowhere to be found in the latest Lonely Planet Guide, but whatever. You must be right. It's preposterous to think that two separate people could have had different experiences and perspectives in the same country.
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Travelling is about new experiences and about getting out of your familiar shell.
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If you want a non-challenging trip go to some high density western tourist spot. |
So in conclusion:
I completely agree Homer. I like a challenge and I like new experiences, but that's not all that travel is to me. For me, it's just as important a search for truth and identity, and I'm not going to kiss ass to every place that I travel through pretending that they're misunderstood paradises.
I stated my reasons why the liquor-sharing and aggressive staring was bothering, very much unlike the Lao side where I was just as exotic in town. I won't repeat myself because you really don't want to hear it. |
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Homer Guest
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Posted: Wed Dec 07, 2005 7:04 am Post subject: |
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bosintang,
Sorry if my post insulted you. I was merely responding to your very own sarcastic OP.
If you re-read your OP...you will see you opened yourself to the responses you got by making certain comments.
In your response to my post, you explain yourself clearly. I have two points to discuss however.
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I apologize for not thinking that everwhere I travel to is Utopia.
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Who said that I think that or that I implied you think that?
Your OP just took shots at Vietnam for differences you encounter. You used sarcasm that sometimes was less then evident....hence the responses.
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For me, it's just as important a search for truth and identity, and I'm not going to kiss ass to every place that I travel through pretending that they're misunderstood paradises. |
Fair enough. However, recognizing the differences and respecting that a different way of life is not inferior because it is different is not akin to kissing ass....it is also not pretenting that they are some sort of paradise.
In conclusion, if you wanted a discussion on thruth and identity or on travel, you could have worded your OP better instead of loping insults at the contry you visited, whether sarcastic or not. |
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bosintang

Joined: 01 Dec 2003 Location: In the pot with the rest of the mutts
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Posted: Wed Dec 07, 2005 7:31 am Post subject: |
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Homer wrote: |
bosintang,
I was merely responding to your very own sarcastic OP.
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I wasn't being sarcastic. I wrote my thoughts and feelings, through my experiences as I perceived them, while traveling through this area. I was actually trying to be lighthearted about the whole adventure, but it obviously didn't come off that way.
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I apologize for not thinking that everwhere I travel to is Utopia.
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Who said that I think that or that I implied you think that?
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As the tone of my post towards this town was negative in nature, both you and Desultude implied that this must be because I'm inexperienced, etc. If I wrote a glorious report on Muang Xen, Vietnam, and what an undiscovered traveler's paradise it was, would you have accused me of the same thing?
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For me, it's just as important a search for truth and identity, and I'm not going to kiss ass to every place that I travel through pretending that they're misunderstood paradises. |
Fair enough. However, recognizing the differences and respecting that a different way of life is not inferior because it is different is not akin to kissing ass....it is also not pretenting that they are some sort of paradise.
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Yes it is. Pretending you like a place and people's behaviour when you don't is kissing ass.
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In conclusion, if you wanted a discussion on thruth and identity or on travel, you could have worded your OP better instead of loping insults at the contry you visited, whether sarcastic or not. |
I suppose I got too sidetracked with my story to get this message across, but oddly enough, I wrote this post in defence of Koreans.
People often complain about schoolchildren yelling "hellos!" and gawking and pointing at them and Koreans spitting etc. etc.; generally showing very masculine Asian qualities. I experienced in Muang Xen Vietnam, a small Vietnamese bordertown currently closed to the world, but about to open up to the world in a big way, all the identical negative qualities people frequently complain about Koreans, but 1000 times more intense. Again, I my thinking, correct or not, is that many towns in Korea were one time like this, but as a whole the place has 'mellowed out over the last couple of decades as it gained more exposure to the outside world.
My post may have been insulting to Muang Xen, even Vietnam as a whole, but somewhere along the line you have to stand up and express an opinion. Expressing an opinion does not make you ignorant, as long as you back it up with evidence, and in this case it was my own anedoctal evidence. I never knew a good travel writer, from Mark Twain to VS Naipaul, who was afraid to express an opinion about a place. |
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