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Insadong: A Shell of its Former Self

 
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Cave Dweller



Joined: 17 Aug 2014
Location: Seoul

PostPosted: Sun Jan 11, 2015 1:35 am    Post subject: Insadong: A Shell of its Former Self Reply with quote

I went to Insadong today for the first time in many years and probably the last time in a long time, possibly ever.

I was never a huge fan of it but I would occasionally take a stroll and didn't hate it. The Starbucks has been there longer than I have been in Korea but a large share of the shops were traditional Korean stuff for the tourists. Fans, pottery, hanbok shirts, etc.

At the end of Insadong (Jongno side) now has a bunch of make up shops, including Olive Young and others. The street was littered with food carts selling ice cream in a cane, hodeok, churros and the sort. In addition to Turkish Ice cream. I was like 'Turkish Ice Cream in Insadong = WTF?'

The Olive Young, like the Starbucks, had the sign written in hangul. They are allowed to open shops on the main road but McDonalds isn't. Park Geun Hye would be proud of the favourtism being shown.

I am not 100% sure about this but I remember the street being car-free all weekend, but today, it was only the front half (Anguk side) and taxis kept coming, annoying the shit out of the tourists.

Overall, I would have rated Insadong as an A- or B+ before, but now drop it to a C- at best. Good luck attracting tourists, Korea.
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Joe Boxer



Joined: 25 Dec 2007
Location: Bundang, South Korea

PostPosted: Sun Jan 11, 2015 7:55 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

I saw this a few hours ago. I'm surprised no one's replied.
Yes, Insadong sucks now.
You take any area of Korea that has some character and get a few Koreans with money involved, and it's suddenly an Olive Young/ Paris Baguette/ Baskin Robbins/ Starbucks/ high-priced shit-hole.
Maybe I'm becoming an old fogey, but back in 2001 Insadong was a really different place. It was a place that you wanted to take visiting friends and family. Now? Nah.
And "Starbucks" in Hangul? Lol, what a compromise.
Korea is losing its charm for the sake of the quick buck.
Too bad.
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Sister Ray



Joined: 25 Mar 2006
Location: Fukuoka

PostPosted: Sun Jan 11, 2015 4:06 pm    Post subject: Re: Insadong: A Shell of its Former Self Reply with quote

Cave Dweller wrote:


I am not 100% sure about this but I remember the street being car-free all weekend, but today, it was only the front half (Anguk side) and taxis kept coming, annoying the shit out of the tourists.



Really? They've reopened to cars at the weekend? That's a really regressive move. I lived in Anguk in 2012 and used to always choose to walk along Insadong at the weekends. The lack of traffic in car choked JongnoGu was really pleasant.

Olive Young etc. were all there in 2012. There were no shops I was interested in visiting, but it still made for a pleasant thoroughfare.
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Leon



Joined: 31 May 2010

PostPosted: Sun Jan 11, 2015 5:40 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Insadong has never really been that authentic. When I was in Korea I'd just go there when I needed to buy souvenirs for people back home. However, the best steakhouse that I found in Korea was nearby, Kitchen 272, under the Fraser Hotel, so I would go to the area just to eat there.
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Chaparrastique



Joined: 01 Jan 2014

PostPosted: Sun Jan 11, 2015 8:59 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Joe Boxer wrote:
Korea is losing its charm for the sake of the quick buck.


Never a truer word said. Its been happening relentlessly over the past decade.

Charm. Atmosphere. Cultural and natural beauty. The spirit of place. Koreans seem unable to recognize or value it.
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jvalmer



Joined: 06 Jun 2003

PostPosted: Sun Jan 11, 2015 9:43 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Leon wrote:
Insadong has never really been that authentic. When I was in Korea I'd just go there when I needed to buy souvenirs for people back home. However, the best steakhouse that I found in Korea was nearby, Kitchen 272, under the Fraser Hotel, so I would go to the area just to eat there.

The real Korea is down some back alley with hole-in-the-wall restaurants, and shops with some 73 year old grannie picking her nose while lifting 80 pounds of kimchi cabbage over her head. You'll see Koreans arguing, and fighting too. Better than any fake tourist trap.
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coralreefer_1



Joined: 19 Jan 2009

PostPosted: Mon Jan 12, 2015 3:07 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

I want to preface these comments by saying that I agree with the consensus here. In the 10+ years I have lived in S. Korea, I can honestly say I have only been to Insa-dong once, and even then it was just a street I walked down and found a bite to eat. Only later did I learn that is was THE Insa-dong.

With that said though, and while we are mostly western commenters may not like the changes that are happening there, I can understand a bit of the logic behind some of what has been described.

Lets take into consideration for a moment the nationalities of the vast numbers of tourists in Korea are. Yep, that's right...other Asians. These are the same types of people that have 73 year old sjummas picking their noses while serving up great food and a traditional atmosphere in back alley restaurants in their OWN countries. They are the same people that have very similar ancient temples/gates/palaces in their OWN countries. The same things that are tourist attractions for Westerners are likely not the same things that other Asian tourists take as much interest in. Sure, they may be attracted to sure things because it is "Korean"...but many other Western people are attracted to them for much broader reasons (they are Asian/ancient..etc)

It seems to me that Korea has/is attempting to rebrand its tourism industry based around attracting other Asians, many of whom are joining the middle class in recent years and can actually afford to travel for pleasure, and doing things that they believe (correctly or incorrectly) will attract and interest these people.

I can very easily see some middle class family from some city in China not one of the major cities taking FAR more interest in Starbucks (Starbucks' own website lists only ONE Starbucks in the whole of China) or Korean cosmetics that are wildly popular in China and S.E. Asia than they would some back alley restaurant or some palace that isn't really all that distinctive to average tourist than the many in China.

Again I agree with the reservations and laments expressed here. However its only natural for an industry to attempt to cater to those that are the biggest participants. It is after all, more of a tourism center than it is "The heart of Korea"
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jvalmer



Joined: 06 Jun 2003

PostPosted: Mon Jan 12, 2015 3:25 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

To coralreefer_1, you do raise some excellent points. At times I, and we, are slightly culturally arrogant thinking that westerners are the center of Korea's tourism industry, when in reality it is other Asians. They want to see the modernness that has yet to hit most areas of their respective countries. The Korean Wave that Asians love, and we westerners barely notice.
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nicwr2002



Joined: 17 Aug 2011

PostPosted: Mon Jan 12, 2015 6:15 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

coralreefer_1 wrote:
I want to preface these comments by saying that I agree with the consensus here. In the 10+ years I have lived in S. Korea, I can honestly say I have only been to Insa-dong once, and even then it was just a street I walked down and found a bite to eat. Only later did I learn that is was THE Insa-dong.

With that said though, and while we are mostly western commenters may not like the changes that are happening there, I can understand a bit of the logic behind some of what has been described.

Lets take into consideration for a moment the nationalities of the vast numbers of tourists in Korea are. Yep, that's right...other Asians. These are the same types of people that have 73 year old sjummas picking their noses while serving up great food and a traditional atmosphere in back alley restaurants in their OWN countries. They are the same people that have very similar ancient temples/gates/palaces in their OWN countries. The same things that are tourist attractions for Westerners are likely not the same things that other Asian tourists take as much interest in. Sure, they may be attracted to sure things because it is "Korean"...but many other Western people are attracted to them for much broader reasons (they are Asian/ancient..etc)

It seems to me that Korea has/is attempting to rebrand its tourism industry based around attracting other Asians, many of whom are joining the middle class in recent years and can actually afford to travel for pleasure, and doing things that they believe (correctly or incorrectly) will attract and interest these people.

I can very easily see some middle class family from some city in China not one of the major cities taking FAR more interest in Starbucks (Starbucks' own website lists only ONE Starbucks in the whole of China) or Korean cosmetics that are wildly popular in China and S.E. Asia than they would some back alley restaurant or some palace that isn't really all that distinctive to average tourist than the many in China.

Again I agree with the reservations and laments expressed here. However its only natural for an industry to attempt to cater to those that are the biggest participants. It is after all, more of a tourism center than it is "The heart of Korea"


But they already have other areas for "those" kinds of tourists and it's called Lotte Duty Free Shop...
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coralreefer_1



Joined: 19 Jan 2009

PostPosted: Mon Jan 12, 2015 6:41 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

nicwr2002 wrote:
coralreefer_1 wrote:
I want to preface these comments by saying that I agree with the consensus here. In the 10+ years I have lived in S. Korea, I can honestly say I have only been to Insa-dong once, and even then it was just a street I walked down and found a bite to eat. Only later did I learn that is was THE Insa-dong.

With that said though, and while we are mostly western commenters may not like the changes that are happening there, I can understand a bit of the logic behind some of what has been described.

Lets take into consideration for a moment the nationalities of the vast numbers of tourists in Korea are. Yep, that's right...other Asians. These are the same types of people that have 73 year old sjummas picking their noses while serving up great food and a traditional atmosphere in back alley restaurants in their OWN countries. They are the same people that have very similar ancient temples/gates/palaces in their OWN countries. The same things that are tourist attractions for Westerners are likely not the same things that other Asian tourists take as much interest in. Sure, they may be attracted to sure things because it is "Korean"...but many other Western people are attracted to them for much broader reasons (they are Asian/ancient..etc)

It seems to me that Korea has/is attempting to rebrand its tourism industry based around attracting other Asians, many of whom are joining the middle class in recent years and can actually afford to travel for pleasure, and doing things that they believe (correctly or incorrectly) will attract and interest these people.

I can very easily see some middle class family from some city in China not one of the major cities taking FAR more interest in Starbucks (Starbucks' own website lists only ONE Starbucks in the whole of China) or Korean cosmetics that are wildly popular in China and S.E. Asia than they would some back alley restaurant or some palace that isn't really all that distinctive to average tourist than the many in China.

Again I agree with the reservations and laments expressed here. However its only natural for an industry to attempt to cater to those that are the biggest participants. It is after all, more of a tourism center than it is "The heart of Korea"


But they already have other areas for "those" kinds of tourists and it's called Lotte Duty Free Shop...


True, and yet there are other areas that cater to the kinds of sights/sounds/smells most of us here enjoy also. Its called the rest of Korea that isn't a "tourist" area.

Much like any other country in the world, the "tourist" areas are most often not the most authentic taste of the country.
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Who's Your Daddy?



Joined: 30 May 2010
Location: Victoria, Canada.

PostPosted: Mon Jan 12, 2015 9:32 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

I visited Starbucks in Qingdao 8 years ago. The was Carrefour, KFC, western restaurants. Chinese cities are as, or more, western than Korea. Apart from the old transit buses it was first world looking.

I dont think Chinese are impressed by Korea's cities, theirs are just as good.
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Lunar Groove Gardener



Joined: 05 Jan 2005
Location: 1987 Subaru

PostPosted: Mon Jan 12, 2015 10:08 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Insadong has quite a few galleries. This is still true.
From what I understand, business owners of the past
have been priced out by raised rents. We call it gentrification
in the west. A cool area becomes a hothouse for artists and
small boho busihness models thrive. Eventually that popularity
gives way to the fat cats who don't have anything to contribute
in that regard, or any interest, or anything interesting to offer or express.

We tend to hate these corporations for what they stand for as the very essence of life and beauty is sucked out of all places they buy into eventually.
In the place of a Soho, a Greenwich Village etc. we are given a strip mall of chain businesses with nothing good to be said for them.

If I am wrong, and these McNeighborhoods and Starbuck Squares are somehow resonant with the stuff of life for many, so be it.

Corporate interests have the available capital to supplant culture at its point of inception and rebrand it. This is simply due to their mass appeal and quarterly profits.
Have a coke and a smile, and find another part of town to be actually cool in while we get the Lotterianos seats at the window to watch all the people at Family Mart and Angel-in-us circulate.
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