Job Discussion Forums

[or82]

Hello all,

I'll be moving to Monterrey this summer to teach in a private bilingual school for two years. I did a search on this forum to get info on the city but was disappointed at the lack of posts... I guess a lot of people eschew this seemly "Americanized" town and instead head straight for the south?

At any rate, any info, opinions and/or observations on the city would be appreciated. My housing is already arranged and I'll be living in the residential area of San Pedro so I'm not too worried about that.

But I'd like to know about the general vibe of the city, the people, the nightlife, the prices of things, the climate, and anything else you think I should know!

Thanks a bunch.

[Samantha]

This website gives a good overview.

http://www.allaboutmonterrey.com/allaboutmonterrey.htm

[lennon146]

I live in Mexico City but have visited Monterrey twice because an old friend of mine lives up there.

I have to say, aside from the joy of seeing my friend, it was the least impressive Mexican city I have seen. But that depends on what you're looking for. It's extremely modern and does have an "American/Texas" feel about it. That said, the mountains around the city and in that region generally are breathtaking... if you like mountains.

I visited in July and it was extremely hot, above 40 C. If you've never been to a desert climate before, you'll be totally blown away by just how hot it gets. Apparently in winter, it actually gets quite chilly.

I would describe Monterrey as 'soulless' but that's just my opinion. I prefer the Spanish colonial cities and there is little of that sort in Monterrey. Even its 'centro historico' (Barrio Antigua) is tiny with a few pretty streets and low buildings (and lots of bars).

Paul

[or82]

Thanks so much for your impressions.

Thanks for the link Samantha, I'm familiar with that website and it does indeed give a good overview of the city.

Lennon, why do you say that Monterrey is "soul-less"? Is it the people? I know that it's an industrial city; is the "mentality" somehow different because of this?

As for the architecture and all that I am pretty much indifferent as I got my fill of pretty buildings in the like after living in Europe for two years. But it's good to know that the city is lacking in that department!

I get worried that Monterrey is very far from many major point of interest in Mexico, but I guess I'll still have 2 years to explore to my heart's content!

Any other opinions/suggestions are appreciated!

[cummings93]

The mountains are spectacular there! I drive around Monterrey on the Perifico and coming up through Mantehuela, the road shoots you out amongst these beautiful, pristine mountains. Jagged and gigantic!

[lennon146]

Hi or82,

I was perhaps a little harsh. I certainly wouldn't describe the people themselves as 'soulless'. I stayed with my friend's family both times and they are extremely nice people. It's said by many that the people in that region of Mexico are more conservative than 'chilangos' (Mexico City-ites) and I have found that to be true, but it's not a complaint. Almost all Mexicans I've met are friendly and welcoming to foreigners, particularly if you can speak some Spanish.

As a white guy, I also got stared at a lot more than I do in Mexico City. Monterrey is closer to the U.S but there's perhaps less tourism there and so less white faces.

The landscape is certainly the most dramatic I have seen in Mexico, although you have to get out of the city to see that.

Just don't expect a traditional, Spanish-looking city. It's a vibrant, shiny modern metropolis with plenty of American chains and influence.

[MELEE]

[J Sevigny]

I lived in Monterrey for three years and loved it. The weather is extreme, as someone mentioned, but the people are far friendlier than in Guadalajara, where I currently live. The mountains are indeed breathtaking and the city is home to MARCO, perhaps the top contemporary art museum in Latin America. For a city with little evidence of its pre-Colonial history, it also has a very passable history museum.

The public transportation system is adequate, and if you spend enough time in Monterrey you'll find that far from being "Americanized" (whatever that word means) Monterrey has as distinct a culture as any city in Mexico.

It's peculiar blend of corrido-playing cowboys, buyers-sellers from San Luis Potosi, Oaxaca, and its tech-savvy younger generation of regios make it a truly fascinating city.

If you're a meat eater, Monterrey is a good place for you. Besides kid goat, or cabrito, the regional specialty, the quality of the beef in that part of the north is incredible -- comparable, some say, to Argentine cuts.

The city's people (huge generalizations coming) are on the conservative side. They tend to vote PAN and value their jobs above all else (with the normal exception being their families).

If you want to check out a sort of lefty place (if indeed that's your thing) head to Cafe Nuevo Brazil, next to the El Norte newspaper office a few blocks from the Macroplaza. Lots of journalists and artists hang out there.

Obviously, if you're looking for colonial architecture, don't go to Monterrey, which is essentially a "revolution-era" city. If you want to see poor indigenous people dressed in traditional clothes, Monterrey's probably not the place for you either. But if you can do without either of those two post-card cliches of Mexico, I think you'll really enjoy the city.

Feel free to PM me if there's anything specific you'd like to know about Monterrey.

[tagastelum]

[or82]

Thanks for all of the info.

What are the prices like in Monterrey? Is it really that expensive there? That's what everyone seems to be saying... At the same time, I'll have free accomodation provided and wont have to pay any utility nor (home) phone bills... Are groceries much more expensive, for example? Public transportation?

[ls650]

[tagastelum]

If your housing and utilities are paid for, your greatest financial burdens have already been lifted. That leaves you responsible only for paying your costs for food, public transportation, cell phone and entertainment.

With respect to food, my friends and I in Monterrey have noticed significant price inflation over the past couple of years (well, greater than what government statistics report). So, I have to pay closer attention to prices than I did in the past. I cook quite a lot for the two of us in my household and I spend a minimum of $3000/month on groceries. Usually I shop at HEB (a Texas grocery chain with many stores in the middle class neighborhoods of the metropolitan area), but will also go to Soriana and Wal-Mart when it's convenient. At these large, modern grocery stores, prices for produce and bakery goods are about 1/2 of what you pay in the US or Canada. Prices for meat, dairy and processed foods are about the same, if not a bit more. Mexican products always cost less than imported products. (And you may well be thinking, "I'll save money by only buying locally-produced items." I try to do the same, but the problem is that you will, from time to time, need to satisfy a craving for something like Haagen Dazs. Then, you will pay $70-$80 for a tiny carton of said ice cream.)

There are strategies for reducing your food costs. Try to buy meat at the neighborhood butcher shops like Carneceria Ramos, San Barr or others. For produce, go to the supermarket on Tuesdays, which is known as "martes del mercado" and prices for fruits and vegetables are slashed. Sadly, Monterrey does not have neighborhood markets with fresh fruits and vegetables. There is one exception in Monterrey�s centro. The area around Colegio Civil and Arramberri streets is crammed full of vendors selling fruits and vegetables. It is crowded, chaotic...very Latin American. It's also a lot of fun to go. Prices here are noticeably less than in the supermarkets. But, what you gain in atmosphere you lose in convenience.

Going out to eat in Monterrey ranges from cheap to expensive as in all cities. You can go out and grab an order of tacos as an outdoor stand and that will only cost $30-$50. In Centrito Valle (in San Pedro), for example, there are many taco stands and other inexpensive restaurants where you can eat well for under $100/person. At middle-range sushi places, two people can eat for under $200. There are too many fast food chains here and the prices are the same as you would find in the US or Canada (which means, expensive on a Mexican salary). There are many restaurants here, but they tend toward typical northeastern Mexican cuisine (with what seems to be the same menu...yawn), US chain imports (yawn again) or expensive see-and-be-seen fresa establishments where "international" food is served up as art on your plate (no thanks).

Public transportation costs are low. You can ride a ruta (the bus) for $5-$10. In San Pedro, there is the Circuito Valle, which is a fleet of modern Mercedes minibuses which enjoys a good reputation; I don't know the exact fare, but I imagine that it's in the same price range.

Taxis are also inexpensive and mostly secure. Flag down an ecotaxi on the street and you'll pay about $50 to go 10km. Shorts trips are, of course, less.

It's a good thing that your home phones fees will be paid for. Welcome to Mexico, where the average phone bill is seventh highest in the world! (Thus it comes as no supply that Carlos Slim, owner of TELMEX, is the third richest man in the world.) Telmex provides mediocre service at high prices and its cell phone subsidiary, Telcel, is no better. For a monthly cell contract at Telcel, you pay $340/month for a paltry 170 minutes of air time and only 10 text messages. Many people choose the Amigo plan (a misnomer if ever there was one), which is a pay-as-you-go cell phone kit. Buying the cheapest phone will set you back about $400 and then you can buy airtime cards as often as you need. Not cheap, but at least you can control your costs a bit better.

With regard to entertainment, Monterrey offers many of the same leisure activities as you can find in the suburbs of a medium-sized city in the US or Canada. There are bowling alleys, go-kart tracks, movie theaters, ice skating rinks and malls. Prices for most of these activities is similar to what you pay north of the border. The exception are the movies. Movie tickets cost $40-$80 pesos, higher if you go to a VIP theater boasting reclining leather seats and waiters. (I avoid these since they seem to attract a disproportionately high amount of self-important people chatting away on their cellphones during the movie.) Wednesday is 1/2 price movie night and every cinema complex in the metropolitan area is busy.

Yes, there is also high culture, but sadly, that is not Monterrey's strong suit. Tickets to the ballet are quite affordable, usually around $80. Live local theatre productions are similarly priced. Touring productions from Mexico City are much more expensive (I paid around $1000 to see Cabaret last year), but they are usually worth the cost. Museum admission prices are low and you can receive a discount with a teacher's ID.

Monterrey is now a stop on the North American music tour circuit. U2, the Rolling Stones, the Killers and other big names in both English and Spanish music have come here to play large venues such as the Arena Monterrey. Ticket prices are high, $1000+.

I know that this isn't a definitive listing, but I hope that it helps you put costs into perspective. Just don't forget that if you live a middle class life, your costs are about the same as in the US, but your salary is only half. Monterrey is an expensive city to live in, but if you adapt to your economic reality, you can get by.

[cangringo]

Hey tagastelum,

It's funny, we have been looking for other teachers living in Monterrey and haven't found any so far. Perhaps you could pm me and we could meet for a beer sometime. We need an ex-pat fix lately.

I think everything has been said but I'll add my two cents as well. It's a very busy city and so not exactly what we were looking for coming from Vancouver and looking for a more laid back lifestyle. If you want your gas leak fixed, it will take two weeks or more but if you don't pay your gas bill it will be shut off the next day. The price of gas and electricity is very high as well and I agree about the phone bills. Also if you want anything more than basic cable and internet you will be paying a hefty bill there too.

We live in a more middle class neighborhood up north and it's a lot less American than San Pedro or some of the other neighborhoods down south. The nice thing is the neighbors are all friendly and we are usually show and tell at parties. We haven't found it difficult to meet people at all. We haven't seen many "white" faces around at all but I think that's because of where we live so we do tend to get stared at a lot. We do have one a$%^% neighbor but we had that in Canada too. The people all over are very friendly and as you would expect really appreciate you trying to speak Spanish.

Haven't tried transit because there is no set route and you need a couple of hours to figure out where you're going from here.

It's a good starting point for Mexico though because I think you get a blend of American/Mexican culture. The city is not very pretty and is very industrial (a lot of garbage where we live) but it's still an interesting place and we won't regret having made our start here. We are planning to leave for a few reasons, the weather and the hectic pace of a busy city among them.

I don't know what it's like to live in San Pedro but I imagine it's quieter and much more American than where we live. It's a lot cleaner too.

[Samantha]

Cangringo wrote:

[cangringo]

Yes that's the metro - same as the skytrain in Vancouver and it may well be very modern and have a schedule and all that but it doesn't go all over Monterrey. Unfortunately it doesn't run anywhere near where we live so we would have to catch a bus to get to the station. Thanks for the info though.

The buses are no where near modern and the schedule is ...well after talking to people who take the bus regularly - it's not that reliable and the bus will take off even if you arrive on time sometimes. You can flag down buses in the middle of the street and usually get dropped off in the same way which is great if you know where you are going.

This city is rather difficult to get around even in a car so no I am not brave enough to tackle the buses here. In the summer I've heard they are unbearable due to the temperatures. Keep in mind we don't live near the ex-pat or downtown areas of Monterrey. Well it's about 20 mins or more in traffic driving downtown but that's by one of the faster highways. It takes our roommate about an hour to get downtown by bus.

I will check it out to see if they have a line going anywhere near here though. Anything's possible.