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Seeking a Great City in China
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MMMatens



Joined: 14 Sep 2009
Posts: 4
Location: Thailand

PostPosted: Wed Sep 16, 2009 4:37 pm    Post subject: Seeking a Great City in China Reply with quote

My boyfriend and I are set on working in China, but there seem to be a lot of places to do it. We love natural settings (mountains, trees, forest) and are not afraid of cold weather. We don't mind smaller cities and hate huge ones. Does anyone have advice on a somewhere to apply? We understand we are looking at a February start date. Also, any opinions on working in Mongolia or Tibet?

Thanks so much!
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thefuzz



Joined: 10 Aug 2009
Posts: 271

PostPosted: Wed Sep 16, 2009 5:56 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Your best options would be either one of these cities: Kunming (in Yunnan Province) and Chengdu (in Sichuan Province). Especially Kunming if you're into nature as there's loads of stuff to do just outside the city limits (plus close enough to some wonderful destinations such as Dali, Lijiang and the like which you can visit during the weekends).

Chengdu, on the other hand, is a slightly larger city compared to Kunming, but it also offers more western amenities (which you'll crave after a while living in smaller cities in China). The thing I love about Chengdu is the unlimited travel possibilities in and around Sichuan Province. It makes for a great hub if you want to explore Tibetan areas outside of Tibet proper plus also access to Gansu and Qinghai Provinces in the far north (plus wonderful grasslands to explore in the northern region as well).

But the most important thing to consider living in one of these cities is the fact that you'll be able to make enough money to enjoy your time in China and travel when you feel like it. Lost of jobs both in Chengdu and Kunming, plus opportunities to make more doing private tutoring work (which is not always available in smaller towns).

As for Tibet there weren't many paid positions before and given the recent tensions and so forth, the government has cracked down even more. Unless you want to volunteer, not much in terms of paid teaching employment will be available.

As for Mongolia (and by this I think you mean the province of Inner Mongolia in China, yes?) there is work available in the main towns, but given its isolation and very cold winter months (I'm Canadian and I felt really cold visiting Inner Mongolia in the winter) it can be a hard on the spirit at times.

Anyway, I would choose Kunming as my most livable city in China. Here is a website you should check out:

http://www.gokunming.com/en/

And a website about Chengdu:

http://www.morechengdu.com/

Cheers and good luck picking that one great Chinese city.
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mondrian



Joined: 20 Mar 2005
Posts: 658
Location: "was that beautiful coastal city in the NE of China"

PostPosted: Wed Sep 16, 2009 8:09 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

What makes for a "great" city?

I used to think that Leeds (or Sheffield) in the UK was a great city as it was so easy to get away from the filth into lovely surrounding countryside.
Here in Dalian you can easily reach the whole of NE China (if you want to!) and other pages on this website have extolled its charms
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MMMatens



Joined: 14 Sep 2009
Posts: 4
Location: Thailand

PostPosted: Thu Sep 17, 2009 5:20 am    Post subject: thanks "thefuzz" Reply with quote

This is really excellent feedback. We appreciate your time and thoughtful response.
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Blingcosa



Joined: 17 May 2008
Posts: 146
Location: Guangdong

PostPosted: Thu Sep 17, 2009 5:34 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Hope this helps:
http://community.travelchinaguide.com/forum2.asp?i=21188

With regard to Kunming - I've never been there, but a classmate of mine (who had already visited Beijing and Shenzhen) was so overwhelmed by how crowded Kunming was, that she needed friends to come from Thailand and rescue her!!

I do know that Kunming has a reputation for being an over-commercialised tourist place.
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vikuk



Joined: 23 May 2007
Posts: 1842

PostPosted: Thu Sep 17, 2009 10:51 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Quote:
This is really excellent feedback. We appreciate your time and thoughtful response.

I'm afraid it's rather naive info - I travel Sichuan for a living - and to get to any destinations that resemble tranquil nature, at least as we think of it from back home - you have to give at least 4 hours from Chengdu (Places like Moxi or Wawu Shan are not so far away from C - but the nearest stretch of great nature - Wolong and the Balang pass - was badly trashed by the quake, and is now being doubly trashed by the new rural urbanisation project that has seen a whole spate of new building in this area) - and what were recently areas of natural beauty are often ruined by the never ending road construction/mending projects and other building works. Chengdu development is now fast approaching the borders of Dujiangyan - the 5 years I've been here there have been vast tracks of farming land taken over by housing and industry. This morning,while driving a client to her a flight, the amount of morning smog covering the city was so much that it stung our eyes.
By the way don't expect to see any natural rivers in Sichuan - they have nearly all been dug up for gravel - or dammed for Hydro-electric - and I defy anyone to call this an exaggeration.

As for Kunming - a normal Chinese city with smog - and since Yunnan doesn't have Pandas (the reason why Sichuan has so much national park) - natural forest has been trashed with logging and agricultural projects - especially in south were you now see huge areas of Banana or equally sterile Palm Oil plantations.

Luckily there are still some great spots left - we have photographed both Red Panda and Takin - but, for most folk, its takes major holidays to get to these places - and your own transport, especially if you want to get away from the noise and hassle of local tourists. (you certainly can't get far on weekends). And prices for parks are high - if you take to Jiuzhiagou it costs 310RMB for a combined park bus and entrance ticket that only lasts for 2 days - and then there's food, Chengdu bus-fare and Hotel on top of this - which can take a decent chunk out of any low paying FT wage!!!!!

Sorry for the dismal news - but that's how it is out here!!!!!

PS - try asking some of the FT's who live in Chengdu how often they get into the surrounding nature - take forest walks - climb mountains - I think you'll find , because nature is so far away from this place, that most just sit back in the city and drink beer.
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MMMatens



Joined: 14 Sep 2009
Posts: 4
Location: Thailand

PostPosted: Thu Sep 17, 2009 2:59 pm    Post subject: thanks again Reply with quote

I really appreciate the honest information on the environmental issues. I suppose I thought there would be some pollution, but perhaps I am seeking something too ideal. Is there a smaller city that is less ruined you could suggest?
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thefuzz



Joined: 10 Aug 2009
Posts: 271

PostPosted: Thu Sep 17, 2009 4:04 pm    Post subject: Re: thanks again Reply with quote

MMMatens wrote:
I really appreciate the honest information on the environmental issues. I suppose I thought there would be some pollution, but perhaps I am seeking something too ideal. Is there a smaller city that is less ruined you could suggest?


He can't suggest a place, because like most people who have been in China for a while he hates himself for being/living here this long. His assessment and attack on my post was bitter and reminiscent of many foreigners who live in China for an extended period of time...the simply don't like it here one bit, but on the other hand there is nothing back home as well so they stay on and try to survive.

Anyway, there is no ideal place in China. Pollution is a problem, so if you're looking for sparkling blue skies you won't find it here. There are no real small towns (with a population of 1.3 billion a small town is one with a population of 500,000). Chengdu and Kunming were my personal choices with Kunming winning out in general, but this is just that: my opinion. He mentioned that Kunming is a crowded city and that his friend had to be rescued and sent back to Thailand...had a laugh at that one...this is CHINA...all cities are crowded!

Anyway, best would be to make your own choice and not ask for advice. Come to China (I'm guessing you're in Thailand now so it's easy to fly over), travel around a bit and find a spot that you really like (but since the country is huge, try to focus on one area). I prefer the South-West, but that's just me.
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vikuk



Joined: 23 May 2007
Posts: 1842

PostPosted: Thu Sep 17, 2009 4:05 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Smaller Sichuan cities that employ FT's - and are closer to a more acceptable version of the great outdoors - include Emei (South West Transport University Emei Campus) and Ya'an (there's an agricultural uni that legally employs FT's here) - but both of these places also suffer from pollution from nearby industry, and Ya'an is labeled as the wettest city in China - but you can quickly get to walking areas, and after a little exploring will soon be able to find paths into a less industrialised China.

If you want a lot of nature and outdoor experience - keep clear of Chengdu.

By the way my wife and I - among other things - conduct environmental impact studies focusing on bird populations (we've already put two new species on the Sichuan breeding list), sub-contracting for a major British Environmental consultancy firm that works in supplying environmental reports that are required by the Chinese govt. when foreign firms involved in Joint-venture projects develop green-field sites - we write honestly about the environment because we love "wild" China so deeply - and so heartbroken to see so much of it disappearing so quickly.

And anyway - whatever my views and feelings over China, whether I'm suitable or not to live in this country - have no impact whatsoever on the truth of the matter that can summed up in an indisputable - China has very serious environmental problems, which makes it extremely hard for FT's to find clean unpolluted living areas that give easy access to sites that allow for fresh-air countryside experiences away from the madding crowd.
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vikuk



Joined: 23 May 2007
Posts: 1842

PostPosted: Fri Sep 18, 2009 4:43 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

After thinking overnight what the best Sichuan site would be I plump for Ya'an - here you can get weekends at -

Wawu Shan - about 2 hours away if you use mini-bus taxis - on the country roads rather than the looping motorway route that the larger busses will take - here a primeval table-top forest gives sights of Red Panda (we got one here in late June) and if your birders mega-restricted species like Three-toedl and Grey-hooded Parrotbill. When you get to know the locals they'll guide you to places that don't need tickets.

Laba He - about 1.5 hours up the G318 (the Lhasa highway) again a ticketed area and expensive hotels but they have a camping option, and the staff are pretty friendly if you're regular visitors. Here you can see larger mammals - Samba Deer and Short-tailed Macaques are simple - but we've also seen Musk Deer, Indian Civet Cat, and Red Panda - Takin are also about but don't get in the way of these strange beasts they have a pretty nasty reputation. This park is at the end of the Giant Panda area that includes Wolong - Giant Panda must turn up out here - but modern records are sparse.

The old Erlang Road - another 40 mins up the G318 - is the old track, now replaced by a tunnel, that used to be the main road to Kangding. 30km's of walking here - and lots of possibility for camping. This area borders Laba He - so in effect its the park without a ticket (and no hotel or restaurant). Red panda and Takin are here - for the birders this is our best spot for Streaked Barwing.

Moxi - this is 4 hours from Ya'an - its being slowly trashed by tourist development - and favorite areas for trekking such as the Yanzi Valley are being closed off for bus only ticketed visits as in the Jiuzhaigou area. But if you explore you'll find paths - getting there is easy - there's a backpacker hostel with kitchen for 50rmb/night - but regular travel to this area is depressing with all the alterations and destruction!!!!!

There are also lots of other sites very close to Ya'an - a monastery (Honglingshan) - just oustside Tianquan - and another on the road south that heads off in the direction of Xichang. Last week we discovered a walk onto a table-top marshland - that's half way along the country route to Wawu - so there's a lot to do.

As for transport your own is best - we use 4 wheels - but a far cheaper alternative is motorbike.
But come with stout-heart - things can be awful saddening out here - what was a great site one day can quickly turn into a tangle of rubble and roots the next!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
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drjtrekker



Joined: 16 Feb 2008
Posts: 251

PostPosted: Tue Sep 22, 2009 1:54 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Hey VIKUK....stop giving away our secret!!!

I am a Ya'an FT!! and Vikuk is right re: his assessment of Chengdu and the surrounding areas.
I have traveled all through Sichuan and know Chengdu well.

The other post responding to Vikuk i believe is a bit uh.....well, listen to Vikuk...and ME...I live HERE! Sorry mr. fuzz.

Anyways Matens....there are some small areas in Sichuan. Search it.
In ya'an...forget the uni. no chance. sorry.

There is however a middle school/high school, they might have an opening in feb. if the guy leaves. Next year the other guy may leave as well.
They only have 2 teachers...dunno if they can have more.

Dont know the name of the school off-hand.
And if there is 2 of you...well....good luck.

jd
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mandu



Joined: 29 Jul 2004
Posts: 794
Location: china

PostPosted: Tue Sep 22, 2009 11:05 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Shenzhen is a great city
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nobleignoramus



Joined: 17 Jul 2009
Posts: 208
Location: On the road

PostPosted: Wed Sep 23, 2009 9:18 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

vikuk wrote:


As for Kunming - a normal Chinese city with smog - and since Yunnan doesn't have Pandas (the reason why Sichuan has so much national park) - natural forest has been trashed with logging and agricultural projects - especially in south were you now see huge areas of Banana or equally sterile Palm Oil plantations.

Luckily there are still some great spots left - we have photographed both Red Panda and Takin - but, for most folk, its takes major holidays to get to these places -


That poster seems NOT to know Kunming, or perhaps confuse it with a town nearer the Chengdu agglomeration. No Kunming visitors have had a chance of photographing pandas or takin, so maybe he got his geography mixed up. His descriptions of Chengdu and environs was pretty spot on, though.
On the numerous trips I have made to Yunnan, I failed to notice 'huge banana or sterile palm oil plantations'. Au contraire, the air outside Kunming - not smoggy at all - smelled of pine and, perhaps, eucalyptus, and you will find large swathes of hills under tree cover. The most wellknown one is West Hill, also referred to as 'Sleeping Beauty', and it really is refreshing to walk along its numerous hiking trails. Kunming proper is polluted though, and living there puts quite some stress on residents. Kunming is a large city - medium by Chinese population standards but pretty large nevertheless, and in fast transition.

There are jobs for the intrepid that venture a bit farther away to towns such as Geju or Qujiang; I knew of two public schools that employed foreign teachers in the town of Jinghong in the southernmost part of Yunnan.
A couple of years back Xiaguan near DALI attracted a fair number of FTs -though the jobs available there were not so stable.

As for provinces OTHER THAN YUNNAN, you might try your luck in western HUNAN, in towns such as Wulingyan, Zhangjiajie or Fenghuang. The first among these is pretty to behold but probably atad boring as it is a pure tourist town playing host to tour groups visiting nature parks in the town's vicinity. These tour groups seem to comprise an unnaturally large number of KOREANS, as borne out by the manyKorean inscriptions youwillfind all over town.
The second place is the nearest town to the former that has a train station; the town itself is hideous and foreign visitors are encouraged by locals to move on to Wulingyan in search of accommodation.
And the last place listed above is another tourist destination, albeit a very small one inhabited by a non-Han population. This is an enjoyable place - though I am not sure they have vacancies there for foreigners.

Others have mentioned BEIHAI in Guangxi to me in private conversations. It is a fairly busy but smallish town with some charm (and a few colonial-style buildings left). From there you can make easy getaways toHainan Island.

If a hotter and humid climate is not a deterrent to you, you might consider ZHAOQING in Guangdong, which is home to a growing number of higher education schools, and a charming town to boot.

Many praise ZHUHAI on the border with Macau, though Zhuhai is a much bigger place than any of the places above (except for Kunming). An Irish colleague of mine has recentlymoved to CHAOZHOU, and is enamoured of the place (though it is underdeveloped).
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vikuk



Joined: 23 May 2007
Posts: 1842

PostPosted: Fri Sep 25, 2009 4:46 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Quote:
Kunming - not smoggy at all - smelled of pine and, perhaps, eucalyptus

Ahhhh that fine native tree - eucalyptus - always a sign that the native forest has been cleared and then re-planted with a weed tree that competes with native plants and can't support native fauna.

As for not touring Yunnan - well Ig - you could have joined us for our Dec tour of Yunnan which takes us to some of the nature reserves that lie between Kunming and Ruili - exploring areas around Na Bang, Teng Chong (Goaligong Mt), Cuxiang (Zi Xi Mt) - but I'm afraid there's no more room in the van!!!!!!

As for those Banana and palm oil plantations then you have to travel south to the border regions - but exploring this area is best done with your own transport - as old Noble can testify you don't see so much from the bus!!!!!
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Boxcar Johnny



Joined: 09 Jul 2008
Posts: 26

PostPosted: Mon Nov 02, 2009 6:37 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

mandu wrote:
Shenzhen is a great city


mandu,

can you give reasons why Shenzhen is a great city.

I'm researching that region now, for re-location. Thanks.
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