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chaz47

Joined: 11 Sep 2003
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Posted: Mon Sep 24, 2007 7:01 pm Post subject: Life in JeollaNamDo? |
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Anybody have and experiences about life in JeollaNamDo they'd like to share? What cities are good? I just looked at some photos of Yeosu on Google and it seems very clean and countrified (hopefully in a good way).
Presently I am in Busan and thinking about next year's contract.
Thanks. |
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normalcyispasse

Joined: 27 Oct 2006 Location: Yeosu until the end of February WOOOOOOOO
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Posted: Tue Sep 25, 2007 12:05 am Post subject: |
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I'm living in Yeosu and have been here for two years now. I rather like it here. The only downsides are: A) It takes a long time to get to Seoul by bus/train; B) the attitudes here are slightly more "provincial" than elsewhere due to limited exposure to foreigners.
I really do love Yeosu. It's the best city I've seen in Korea, and, as far as Korea goes, it's a great place to live. Feel free to PM me if you have any questions. |
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Yaya

Joined: 25 Feb 2003 Location: Seoul
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Posted: Tue Sep 25, 2007 12:14 am Post subject: Re: Life in JeollaNamDo? |
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chaz47 wrote: |
Anybody have and experiences about life in JeollaNamDo they'd like to share? What cities are good? I just looked at some photos of Yeosu on Google and it seems very clean and countrified (hopefully in a good way).
Presently I am in Busan and thinking about next year's contract.
Thanks. |
Go to Seoul, the Jeolla area seems very inhospitable to foreigners (and anyone who likes civilization). |
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mikekim
Joined: 11 Aug 2006
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Posted: Tue Sep 25, 2007 4:26 am Post subject: |
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Jeollanmdo is completely run by gangs. So its not uncommon for a rural town to have ferraris and Lexus'. God I even saw a Skyline yesterday. |
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Smee

Joined: 24 Dec 2004 Location: Jeollanam-do
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Posted: Tue Sep 25, 2007 5:26 am Post subject: |
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If I do say so myself, the best information on Jeollanam-do is on galbijim: http://wiki.galbijim.com/Portal:Jeollanam-do
Most of what you read about the Jeolla provinces is garbage, spread by people who have never set foot outside of a Wa Bar or TGIFridays, to say nothing of leaving Seoul or the comfort of foreigners. I've spent just over two years in Korea, half of which has been in Jeollanam-do. The people are very friendly, provided you make an effort to learn the language, participate in the community, and not be a complete dickhead. As far as gangland activity . . . you can say that about any part of the country, and in fact many Koreans would say the same about the Gyeongsang-dos. The current trend toward looking down on Jeollanam-do comes from movies and stereotypes associated with the poor and dark-skinned. Likewise, people who look down on anyplacethatisntSeoul are just buying into the same stereotypes that Koreans themselves hold. Jeez, maybe some of you folks met a rude cab driver during your three hour stay in Gwangju, but I'd suggest you hold off on commenting about a region/culture you know nothing about. I've enjoyed myself here so far, and wouldn't want to live anywhere else.
Cities like Yeosu, Suncheon, and Mokpo are pretty comparable to small-to-medium-sized cities anywhere else in the country. I just happen to think they're a little more scenic. For those who crave civilization-- --there are department stores, Wa Bars, and enough foreigners to make you comfortable. You can also, believe it or not, speak to the locals. Though Koreans can be a little obnoxious with the "my hometown is FAMOUS FOR ____" crap, they'll love to show you around town. There's also excellent hiking, plenty of beaches, temples, scenic drives, islands, parks, festivals, and very friendly people. If you're still in Busan, it might be worth it to visit Yeosu before the weather gets too chilly.
Again, check the galbijim link for information about places and things inside Jeolla/Yeosu. Also, if you have a facebook account you can join the Yeosu group and ask Yeosu-specific questions there. Good luck. |
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taobenli
Joined: 26 Apr 2004
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Posted: Tue Sep 25, 2007 8:58 am Post subject: |
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This post interests me, as I'm planning to move to Korea for fieldwork for my PhD program for a year (or even two). I have spent about 6 months in Seoul for language study, and while I recognize that Seoul has all the resources, I also know that I am NOT a big city person. I just get stressed out in big cities far too easily and the stress takes a physical toll. Also, I lived in rural Japan in a town much smaller (just 20,000) than places in Korea I am considering moving to, so I know I can deal well with rural life.
I also need to choose a city that will work for my husband. I'm proficient (not fluent) in Korean, and he doesn't speak Korean. He's not thrilled with the idea of a hagwon, so I'm hoping to help get him set up at a university.
I have travelled for about a month all over Korea and these are the places I liked and am considering doing my research (on families, so it's important that there are at least some kids, not just old people!):
1. Jeonju in Chollabukdo, about 600-700,000 people.
2. Jinju in Gyeongsangnamdo, quite a bit smaller at 300-400,000.
3. Yeosu (I thought it was the most beautiful city in Korea!), at a mere 320,000
4. Suncheon (?) at 270,000
I would also consider Gwangju- I didn't find it to be the prettiest place, but there was something interesting about it.
Any other recommendations or insight? |
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Alyallen

Joined: 29 Mar 2004 Location: The 4th Greatest Place on Earth = Jeonju!!!
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Posted: Tue Sep 25, 2007 11:35 am Post subject: |
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taobenli wrote: |
This post interests me, as I'm planning to move to Korea for fieldwork for my PhD program for a year (or even two). I have spent about 6 months in Seoul for language study, and while I recognize that Seoul has all the resources, I also know that I am NOT a big city person. I just get stressed out in big cities far too easily and the stress takes a physical toll. Also, I lived in rural Japan in a town much smaller (just 20,000) than places in Korea I am considering moving to, so I know I can deal well with rural life.
I also need to choose a city that will work for my husband. I'm proficient (not fluent) in Korean, and he doesn't speak Korean. He's not thrilled with the idea of a hagwon, so I'm hoping to help get him set up at a university.
I have travelled for about a month all over Korea and these are the places I liked and am considering doing my research (on families, so it's important that there are at least some kids, not just old people!):
1. Jeonju in Chollabukdo, about 600-700,000 people.
2. Jinju in Gyeongsangnamdo, quite a bit smaller at 300-400,000.
3. Yeosu (I thought it was the most beautiful city in Korea!), at a mere 320,000
4. Suncheon (?) at 270,000
I would also consider Gwangju- I didn't find it to be the prettiest place, but there was something interesting about it.
Any other recommendations or insight? |
I've live in Jeonju and have done so for the past 3 years. Jeonju is definitely not big city. There are 600,000+ people but I swear I never see them all. The city is spread out so some of my friends live out near rice paddies and others live close to the downtown strip.
I don't know exactly what to say since I've never lived or gone to the other cities you listed. PM with questions if you'd like.
I will say this. I live in Jeollabukdo and I do like it. Sometimes I want to slap people upside the head but I've met a lot of great people since I've moved here. I don't regret moving here and if I had to do it all over again, I'd still move to Jeonju. I like have a Jeolla accent and I like eating Jeonju bibbimbap  |
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vox

Joined: 13 Feb 2005 Location: Jeollabukdo
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Posted: Tue Sep 25, 2007 3:09 pm Post subject: |
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Smee wrote: |
If I do say so myself, the best information on Jeollanam-do is on galbijim: http://wiki.galbijim.com/Portal:Jeollanam-do
Most of what you read about the Jeolla provinces is garbage, spread by people who have never set foot outside of a Wa Bar or TGIFridays, to say nothing of leaving Seoul or the comfort of foreigners. I've spent just over two years in Korea, half of which has been in Jeollanam-do. The people are very friendly, provided you make an effort to learn the language, participate in the community, and not be a complete *beep*. As far as gangland activity . . . you can say that about any part of the country, and in fact many Koreans would say the same about the Gyeongsang-dos. The current trend toward looking down on Jeollanam-do comes from movies and stereotypes associated with the poor and dark-skinned. Likewise, people who look down on anyplacethatisntSeoul are just buying into the same stereotypes that Koreans themselves hold. Jeez, maybe some of you folks met a rude cab driver during your three hour stay in Gwangju, but I'd suggest you hold off on commenting about a region/culture you know nothing about. I've enjoyed myself here so far, and wouldn't want to live anywhere else.
Cities like Yeosu, Suncheon, and Mokpo are pretty comparable to small-to-medium-sized cities anywhere else in the country. I just happen to think they're a little more scenic. For those who crave civilization-- --there are department stores, Wa Bars, and enough foreigners to make you comfortable. You can also, believe it or not, speak to the locals. Though Koreans can be a little obnoxious with the "my hometown is FAMOUS FOR ____" crap, they'll love to show you around town. There's also excellent hiking, plenty of beaches, temples, scenic drives, islands, parks, festivals, and very friendly people. If you're still in Busan, it might be worth it to visit Yeosu before the weather gets too chilly.
Again, check the galbijim link for information about places and things inside Jeolla/Yeosu. Also, if you have a facebook account you can join the Yeosu group and ask Yeosu-specific questions there. Good luck. |
I'd like to add that if you just can't get on without your weekend runs to Seoul, both Gwangju (3hrs) and Mokpo(3.5hrs) have direct KTX departures to and from Seoul.
Jeollanamdo is great. You can PM me with Jeollanamdo questions too. |
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saw6436
Joined: 16 Jan 2003 Location: Daejeon, ROK
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Posted: Tue Sep 25, 2007 4:04 pm Post subject: |
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I lived in Suncheon in Jeollanam-do for 6 years. I must say that of all the places I have been in Korea (10 years in country now) South Jeolla province is by far my favorite place. Great Korean food. Nice people (a bit country). Little or no pollution. Not to far from Seoul-Pusan-Gwangju if you need a "city" fix. Good fishing and hiking....
And as an aside. About 4 years ago Suncheon was rated as the #1 city in Korea to live in. |
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jinju
Joined: 22 Jan 2006
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Posted: Tue Sep 25, 2007 4:07 pm Post subject: |
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Why go to Jeolla DUMB Do? Its Korea's most backward region. Go to Seoul. Go to Kyeongsannam-do, go anywher ebut jeolla dumb do |
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normalcyispasse

Joined: 27 Oct 2006 Location: Yeosu until the end of February WOOOOOOOO
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Posted: Tue Sep 25, 2007 5:47 pm Post subject: |
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Jeonnam really is beautiful. Yes, there are gangsters here, but they're pretty much invisible. Yeosu is absolutely gorgeous; it's spread out across several islands and is an amalgamation of several cities so the population figure is pretty misleading.
There definitely IS the small-town atmosphere here, and this does, unfortunately, include attitudes towards foreigners. We're definitely stared at here. That said, the locals are often quite nice. Yes, you have to learn more of the language to get by. No, it's not much of a problem.
Yeosu's warmer in the winter than practically anywhere else. There are TONS of hiking trails. Yeosu's also a bit cleaner than most places, and we don't get the yellow dust to the same extent as in the north.
I've traveled a fair bit around Korea and am always glad that I live in Yeosu. Yeah, I do wish I had the conveniences of Seoul or Busan but you learn to live without. If you don't mind shelling out the cash for a flight, you can catch a plane to Seoul; the cost is 70,000KRW (Asiana and Korean Air), there's an airport just ten minutes outside the major part of the city and the flight to Gimpo takes 45 minutes.
Traveling around Yeosu's quite nice. We have several beaches, there are lots of neat islands to explore, ferries run regularly, etc. There's rock climbing on some of the cliffs, too.
Okay, yeah, there are only about 60-70 foreign teachers in the city. Dating can be rough (it was for me until I met the woman who I married). However, we're a very close-knit community.
Yeosu's trying really hard to be a big city. They're bidding for the 2012 Expo and so they're really trying to present Yeosu as a destination in its own right. I'm quite serious when I say that if I have to live in Korea, I want to live in Yeosu. |
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taobenli
Joined: 26 Apr 2004
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Posted: Wed Sep 26, 2007 7:50 am Post subject: |
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Thanks for the information- please keep it coming. Suncheon sounds interesting. Any other recommendations?
I was reading the post by someone who said their car tires were slashed in a small town. This doesn't surprise me. It upsets me more that police in Korea seem to generally be incompetent and biased against foreigners. In my town in Japan there were certainly some backward hicks and isolated racist acts (usually, but not always, directed at male foreign residents rather than me). However, even the small town police were pretty decent. Terrible provincial doctors, though, I'm used to- all the doctors in my town were arrogant, worthless quacks, minus one (who luckily saved my life when I was very sick).
So, those of you who live in Yeosu, Jeonju, or other small cities- are people generally welcoming and easy to talk to? Are there any formerly big-city Koreans that moved to a smaller city to change their quality of life? (In my experience, there are often surprising characters who do have a broad range of experience hiding in small cities). I can deal with some provincial folks (how can they be expected to understand foreigners if they have very little exposure?), but general town/city friendliness is important to me. |
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Pligganease

Joined: 14 Sep 2004 Location: The deep south...
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Posted: Wed Sep 26, 2007 4:18 pm Post subject: Re: Life in JeollaNamDo? |
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Yaya wrote: |
Go to Seoul, the Jeolla area seems very inhospitable to foreigners (and anyone who likes civilization). |
I seem to have the exact opposite experience. In fact, I think many people have the exact opposite experience. I find that the further you get from Seoul, the more kindness you receive from Koreans.
_______________________________________
Ignorant Seoulite Foreigner: "Yo, bar wench.. Why don't you rednecks speak English like they do in Seoul? I mean, come on! Where do you think you are? Where's my effin' beer?"
Bar wench: rolls her eyes.
Ignorant Seoulite Foreigner: (Turning to friend): "See, man... These Jeollanam-do bitches are rude to foreigners." |
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Alyallen

Joined: 29 Mar 2004 Location: The 4th Greatest Place on Earth = Jeonju!!!
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Posted: Wed Sep 26, 2007 4:28 pm Post subject: |
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taobenli wrote: |
Thanks for the information- please keep it coming. Suncheon sounds interesting. Any other recommendations?
I was reading the post by someone who said their car tires were slashed in a small town. This doesn't surprise me. It upsets me more that police in Korea seem to generally be incompetent and biased against foreigners. In my town in Japan there were certainly some backward hicks and isolated racist acts (usually, but not always, directed at male foreign residents rather than me). However, even the small town police were pretty decent. Terrible provincial doctors, though, I'm used to- all the doctors in my town were arrogant, worthless quacks, minus one (who luckily saved my life when I was very sick).
So, those of you who live in Yeosu, Jeonju, or other small cities- are people generally welcoming and easy to talk to? Are there any formerly big-city Koreans that moved to a smaller city to change their quality of life? (In my experience, there are often surprising characters who do have a broad range of experience hiding in small cities). I can deal with some provincial folks (how can they be expected to understand foreigners if they have very little exposure?), but general town/city friendliness is important to me. |
I think people in Jeonju are nice and are fairly easy to talk to. I have realized that strangely enough I have far less problems with older people in comparison to young adults, teenagers and children. I like my doctor and my dentist. I can think of a few Koreans who moved to Jeonju from Seoul and they seem happy. It's not exactly like moving from New York to California, home is only 3 hours away
And I totally disagree with what Yaya said. I don't visit Seoul very often but nearly everytime I've gone, I've had some hostility or incident. 3 years in Jeonju, I've had problems but it's been sporadic at best. Personally I hate Seoul because I find it strangely backwards for a big city.... |
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Kimchi Cha Cha

Joined: 15 May 2003 Location: was Suncheon, now Brisbane
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Posted: Wed Sep 26, 2007 4:59 pm Post subject: |
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I've lived in the Jeolla provinces for four years now: Jeonju (one year), Gwangju (six months) and Suncheon (two and a half years). I find the food, the people (although a bit yokel at times) and the countryside and (relatively) fresh air, the biggest drawcards for me. The great thing about this country also being that you're no more than a few hours from any larger city if you need to get away for a weekend or a few days, which you sometimes will to get a fix of foreign food, etc.
The people are pretty down-to-Earth and quite friendly. I don't feel the hostility here that I sometimes feel in larger cities (especially Busan and Seoul), and my personal experiences back them up as the only two times I've been assaulted whilst minding my business - though both relatively minor - have been in Seoul. |
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