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amanley206253
Joined: 09 Aug 2009
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Posted: Mon Jan 18, 2010 1:34 am Post subject: SLR cameras! |
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When I consider that the likely majority of Dave's ESL Cafe viewers and contributors are traveling types, I too consider there may be some wisdom on certain "traveling electronics", including SLR digital cameras.
After visiting Guinsa Temple in the northeast I decided that I would do very well with purchasing a high-quality camera to capture these truly picturesque moments of visual splendor that I'm perpetually bombarded with as I move fro the countryside, and meet its many entertaining and great people and see its impressive geography. A camera is needed for this kind of venture! And to be honest, I resent being the tourist type with a fanny-pack and a neon pink visor, HOWEVER, there are some moments that do well with being recorded, beyond my memory and my eventual recollections.
Digressing, I would like to hear some input on SLR camera types, especially in accordance with particular advantages ones have on others in differing situations (close shots, wide shots, shooting scenery, shooting wide spaces, etc). From my initial research I see it depends heavily on lens types, and so I'm subsequently considering purchasing different lens if I feel it's needed.
If you have an SLR camera, you surely have an opinion!  |
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Mr. Pink

Joined: 21 Oct 2003 Location: China
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Posted: Mon Jan 18, 2010 1:42 am Post subject: |
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The Pros: You can take breath taking photos.
The Cons: It is burdensome to carry around a body and a couple lens to capture such shots. I carried an SLR all over Beijing and Shanghai on separate trips there and it was a royal pain in the butt.(This might be overcome by getting one of those SLR backpacks like National Geographic makes)
Also, the price. If you want quality lens, you will need a zoom, a utility lens and possibly a wide angle lens. For better quality products, that is around $2000 plus the cost of the body.
Of course, if you are just starting, you can pick up a kit for around $1000 that will have a decent body + two starter lens. (To get an idea of what I am thinking, goto www.costco.ca and in the digial cameras section the one for 859.00 or something like that.)
I currently use my school's equipment as I am the sponsor of the photography club. We have a Canon 450D with a 70-300mm IS UMD lens. I have on order a 18-55mm lens and a 24mm lens. (We also have a second 450D with a 50mm lens, but that lens is useless.)
Once I am done with my contract (next year) I'll probably purchase a Canon body and the 3 types of lens I stated early: utility lens, wide angle and zoom. |
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ty7180
Joined: 02 Nov 2009
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Posted: Mon Jan 18, 2010 2:51 am Post subject: |
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I just bought an Olympus pen ep-1. It is small enough to put in a pocket when not in use. Also it is easy to hide when you are traveling so you don't stand out as a target to theifs. I don't know a lot about cameras, but this seemed like the best option for an all around camera. |
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Spud10
Joined: 26 Sep 2009
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Posted: Mon Jan 18, 2010 4:06 am Post subject: |
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If you want just a Generic lens set to use in all situations, then Mr. Pink's Lens set is definitely Ideal, as it covers the Zoom, wide angle and in between.
However, a lot of people base their lens set on what they do. In my case, I take a lot of Outdoor shots while also taking pictures of people. Thus, a High zoom lens (anything over 105mm or so) is not really something I need.
Zoom lenses are nice for just generic shooting though, and the typical kit lens of 18-55 mm or 18-135 mm are fantastic for that.
I personally am a big fan of the Prime lens. You get better quality pictures than your typical zoom lens, but they also require you to get out of your comfort zone and move about when taking pictures.
I also like wide angle lenses for the obvious out door shots, but they have other uses as well.
Really it all depends on your personal taste and what you like to do. No one can truly say what lens is best for you. |
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blackjack

Joined: 04 Jan 2006 Location: anyang
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Posted: Mon Jan 18, 2010 4:17 am Post subject: |
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If you want the best of both worlds (as well as some of the disadvantages from both), get a compact with a super zoom. I have a canon sx200 12x zoom amazing photos in a slightly larger than compact size. I can't change lens and it's not as small as a true compact but it has an amazing lens and zoom with a lot of the manual controls.
I really recommend it |
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Hindsight
Joined: 02 Feb 2009
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Posted: Mon Jan 18, 2010 5:34 am Post subject: |
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amanley206253, you don't say what camera you've been using, or how much photography experience you have.
I'll let you in on a little secret. One of the keys to great pictures is in the photo editing. You don't need a super fancy program like Photoshop. But you need more than just brightness, contrast and sharpness controls. I mainly use the "levels" histogram type control for luminance or brightness, saturation, and the unsharp mask, plus I crop.
If you get a camera with a good lens and raw photo capability, chances are you will be able to produce very nice photos, after you edit them. Raw photos produce much more detail than jpegs, so a 6 mp raw file may have more detail than a 9 or 12 mp jpeg. And a good 6 mp file, even a jpeg, will be plenty for producing a great looking picture for the web.
I have used a Nikon DSLR, and I have a micro four thirds 12 mp camera. These will not necessarily produce pictures that look better than those from a good amateur camera. In fact, a professional camera might produce pictures that look worse. A pro is likely to use the camera with the internal sharpening turned to a minimum, plus lower contrast and saturation -- this way it is easier to adjust the file in photo editing.
That said, these days many fancy cameras will have idiot proof settings, and all sorts of settings to get nice files straight from the camera. But they have LOTS of settings, and if you don't know what you are doing and set the camera wrong, you might get crummy pictures. DSLRs are not necessarily the best cameras for amateurs.
I have owned and used some nice APS super zooms. They can produce great pictures right from the camera, but can also produce pictures rivaling DSLRs by photo editing their jpegs or raw files.
It's funny, but when you read reviews of the latest, greatest camera, there's always some joker that writes that their old 3 or 4 mp camera produced better pictures than this new whizbang 12 or 15 mp wonder. And there can actually be some truth to that. I was looking at photos from the Fuji 3800, an early 3mp APS that came out about 9 years ago, and they are great! The megapixel race has been a mixed blessing.
Don't assume that a newer camera is somehow going to give you better pictures. Learn how to edit the photos you are taking now, plus make sure you are using the full potential of the controls on your camera. Do you know how to use the EV compensation, the ISO settings, the F stop and shutter speed settings, if you have them? Are you holding your camera really steady, or propping it against something, or using a real tripod (not a tinfoil one)?
These are some of the methods serious photographers use to get good pictures. Plus they have typically studied photography to some extent, perhaps reading books or looking at books of great photographs, and they have shot thousands of pictures.
The biggest and most common mistake I have seen amateurs make is buying a fancy SLR and then putting a cheap lens on it, either a cheap kit lens or a third party lens. What's the point of getting a great camera is you have a cheap lens? I guess to impress other people. This has been going on since the film SLR days, and with film cameras it made absolutely no sense, since the camera was mainly a holder for the film. Now the camera IS the film, so it's not quite the same, but a first-rate lens is still the key to truly sharp, vivid pictures, the kind of pictures the OP seems to have been talking about.
There is no simple answer to the OP's query. But I would say the cheapest way to get professional quality pictures would be to get a good basic DSLR with 6 to 9 mp, and then get a professional quality single focal length prime lens, say 35 or 55 mm. Put your money into the lens. I have seen some fantastic photos from a 6 mp Nikon DSLR and a 50 mm prime lens, but the photographer also did some very skillful editing on his shots.
But that's probably not what most amateurs want. So if you want bells and whistles, I would recommend an APS super zoom, preferably one that produces raw files. These can do just about everything a DSLR can do, short of changing lenses.
Oh, and keep in mind that the mirrors and shutters of DSLRs are typically more fragile than regular digital cameras. |
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pkang0202

Joined: 09 Mar 2007
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Posted: Mon Jan 18, 2010 5:38 am Post subject: |
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Go EVIL.
http://www.wired.com/gadgetlab/2010/01/five-reasons-you-should-ditch-your-dslr/
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There�s a new camera category in town. It�s EVIL, and it�s going to kick your DSLR�s ass. EVIL stands for Electronic Viewfinder Interchangeable Lens, and is our favorite acronym for cameras like the Olympus Pen, the Lumix GF1 and the Samsung NX10. These small, mirrorless, finderless cameras can fit in a pocket and outperform bulky DSLRs. Here�s why your next camera will probably be EVIL.
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Hindsight
Joined: 02 Feb 2009
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Posted: Mon Jan 18, 2010 5:44 am Post subject: |
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OK, pkang0202, do you actually have one of the EVIL, aka micro four thirds cameras?
Is it that much better than your previous camera?
One of the ways photographers are getting super shots these days is through HDR (high dyncamic range) editing.
http://jakob.montrasio.net/2009/10/15/hdr-2009-tutorial-make-a-nice-hdr-image-in-10-minutes-or-less/
http://fiveprime.org/hivemind/Tags/d50,hdr
http://www.flickr.com/photos/yakobusan/434857499/
As I mentioned, one of the best HDR photographers I have seen recommends beginners simply get the Nikon D50 and a 50 mm lens. You also need a steady tripod.
I haven't done HDR, yet (I guess partially because you still need a really nice subject to get great HDR shots). You usually need to do three shots, with a 2 stop bracket either way (use the auto bracketing setting). Your best bet is to set the camera to manual, with a low ISO and raw file. Then you merge the three shots with a HDR editing program. You don't have to have a SLR to do this.
I mention this because some of those great shots out there are not just the result of a good camera. There are a lot of other things that may go into these shots.
And I have seen some real nice shots online that were produced by under $200 pocket cameras, not always with the best lenses. But they were tweaked and sharpened in photo editing.
Last edited by Hindsight on Mon Jan 18, 2010 6:24 am; edited 1 time in total |
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IlIlNine
Joined: 15 Jun 2005 Location: Gunpo, Gyonggi, SoKo
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Posted: Mon Jan 18, 2010 6:23 am Post subject: |
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Are you honestly suggesting HDR for beginners? Also, are you honestly suggesting that editing can make a crappy photo good?
Garbage in = garbage out.
Good photography is not based so much on equipment, but about the basics of photography: subject, composition, exposure. Nail all three with whatever camera you have around, and you'll have a great photograph (which then, if you wish, you can edit later to make it better!).
If you want a cheap combo that takes nice pictures, first you have to pick your poison: Canon or Nikon. Let's choose Nikon for laughs. Get a D40, kit lens (18-55 AF-S) and be happy. Will cost you ~350,000 or maybe a bit more. If you like taking pictures with your friends in a dark bar, all you need to do is pick up Nikon's 35mm 1.8 lens which will run another 250,000. Done!
Then, if you're bored, feel free to learn about the joys of HDR, photoshop, stitching panoramas, selective coloring, proper sharpening technique, retouching, curves, advanced editing with layers, and all that other stuff.
Oh, I'll totally agree with you about the megapixels and such. Heck, I was using a 2.8 megapixel D1H until last year (and I still miss that cam!) - but technology moves on - and the sad fact of it is, with a few exceptions, that it's always an improvement over what it replaces. |
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IlIlNine
Joined: 15 Jun 2005 Location: Gunpo, Gyonggi, SoKo
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Posted: Mon Jan 18, 2010 6:29 am Post subject: |
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The EVIL cameras sure are tempting! They can take great pictures and video, are small, and they look good too.
Caveats:
- Relatively new lens system in micro (and non-micro) 4/3's -- meaning a smaller lens selection (mitigated somewhat by adapting other lenses, but that's hardly for noobs), smaller used market, and it's unlikely you'll be able to swap lenses with your friends.
- no optical viewfinder. They call it a feature -- but using the LCD in bright daylight isn't ideal. The EVFs are pretty good! ... but not quite as good as an optical finder
- Expensive. The D40 suggested above will have similar image quality for a third the price (though no video and bulkier).
If you're looking for a take-anywhere cam with a lens or two to take with you (that 20mm 1.7 is a gem!), and can afford it, by all means, take the plunge! |
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Hindsight
Joined: 02 Feb 2009
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Posted: Mon Jan 18, 2010 6:37 am Post subject: |
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Quote: |
Are you honestly suggesting HDR for beginners? |
No, of course not.
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As I mentioned, one of the best HDR photographers I have seen recommends beginners simply get the Nikon D50 and a 50 mm lens |
i.e., beginners at HDR.
I think my previous post was otherwise clear regarding the OP.
Canon and Nikon may be good options for cheap DSLRs, but they are not the only options for camera brands. Fuji makes some great lenses and sensors, even on moderately priced consumer cameras. Olympus and Lumix have some nice cameras, as well, and the Lumix often have Leica designed lenses. Sony's DSLRs are highly respected, and are the heirs to the Minolta SLR line, which Sony bought.
The curious thing is that, while I think amateurs expect too much of the power of DSLRs to transform their photos, you can get some pretty cheap DSLRs these days. And while the micro four thirds cameras (aka EVIL) are very attractive, you currently must pay a hefty premium for the new format, especially if you want HD video on the Lumix.
One thing to consider, btw, is the CCD vs. CMOS sensor. The Lumix micro four thirds uses CMOS, and I think it produces some unattractive streaking in the higher ISOs. I don't think I will get another CMOS, if that is the cause.
Look, you don't have to intimidate people with a lot of fancy terminology. Most of the stuff in Photoshop most people don't need or use. I typically just go to levels, saturation, tweak the brightness, set the photo size, do the unsharp mask, and save, setting the compression level. This is not hard to learn.
Sometimes you need to adjust the color hue levels, and this IS hard to learn. It's much better to learn to use your camera's color settings properly. The biggest mistake most amateurs make is leaving the color on automatic. You need to at least use the daylight vs shade settings. But you should also learn to use the manual color setting, which is really simple. Then you won't have to screw around much with the color in editing.
What takes skill is learning how to adjust a photo aesthetically. You need to have a sense of what a fine photo is supposed to look like. You need to study great photos closely, and you need to know what to look for, maintaining the appropriate highlight and shadow detail, for example. (I learned this in the days of black and white film and a single 50 mm lens. I think someone learning photography these days might try going for a week shooting only in black and white. It would help develop your eye for light and dark, textures, form, etc.)
In the days of film photography, this was a fairly rare skill, in part because of all the time and expense involved in acquiring it. Now anyone with a digital camera and a computer, plus some software, can try their hand. Judging from the enormous number of great photos I have seen online, a lot of people are mastering the technical skills of photography, and many of them had a surprising amount of artistic talent that must have been latent until digital photography came along. (Also, with digital cameras people, including myself, are just taking more pictures, not all great, but with some good ones.)
So for those who aspire to take good, better or great pictures, I would encourage them. And being in Korea, or wherever they might go next, gives them a good opportunity to practice those skills. Just keep in mind that you must spend some time studying photography, both as technique and art.
You need to carry your camera with you a lot, learning to "see" as you walk around. You need to shoot a lot, in order to develop your eye for photos and your instinct to press the shutter at the right time. You need to then spend time examining your photos critically. You need especially to learn to crop your photos in order to improve your skills of composition. And, finally, you need to remember that the price of your camera is actually one of the less important factors, at least until you master all the prior elements.
(I should add as a ps that one of the reasons older cameras like the Fuji 3800 produced such good photos was also because they hadn't pushed the super zoom envelope yet. The Fuji 3800 had a 6x zoom, but it was really sharp, certainly to the limit of the jpeg compression. When you make 10x, 15x, 20x zooms, you inevitably sacrifice image quality over simpler lenses. Simpler lenses or single focal length lenses are generally going to be sharper.
So amateurs are lured by cameras touting higher megapixels and longer lenses, and manufacturers have responded with cheap cameras with fancy specs. But they are often not as sharp and produce images with more noise.
That said, with computer designed lenses, and in-camera computer correction of lens aberration, you can get some amazing lenses on digital cameras these days. But you need to study the reviews and lens tests closely to see how good a camera is. You can't go on brand name or price. It's better to go for image quality over big number specs if you wnat to make good photos.) |
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pkang0202

Joined: 09 Mar 2007
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Posted: Mon Jan 18, 2010 2:55 pm Post subject: |
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Hindsight wrote: |
OK, pkang0202, do you actually have one of the EVIL, aka micro four thirds cameras?
Is it that much better than your previous camera?
One of the ways photographers are getting super shots these days is through HDR (high dyncamic range) editing.
http://jakob.montrasio.net/2009/10/15/hdr-2009-tutorial-make-a-nice-hdr-image-in-10-minutes-or-less/
http://fiveprime.org/hivemind/Tags/d50,hdr
http://www.flickr.com/photos/yakobusan/434857499/
As I mentioned, one of the best HDR photographers I have seen recommends beginners simply get the Nikon D50 and a 50 mm lens. You also need a steady tripod.
I haven't done HDR, yet (I guess partially because you still need a really nice subject to get great HDR shots). You usually need to do three shots, with a 2 stop bracket either way (use the auto bracketing setting). Your best bet is to set the camera to manual, with a low ISO and raw file. Then you merge the three shots with a HDR editing program. You don't have to have a SLR to do this.
I mention this because some of those great shots out there are not just the result of a good camera. There are a lot of other things that may go into these shots.
And I have seen some real nice shots online that were produced by under $200 pocket cameras, not always with the best lenses. But they were tweaked and sharpened in photo editing. |
OP wants a high quality camera. Also, one of the biggest things that put people off into SLR/DSLR cameras is the bulk/weight of the equipment.
Sure, a simple point and click compact camera could do the job,. So could a 5mp cell phone camera. It seems the OP doesn't want decent pictures. The OP wants "truly picturesque moments of visual splendor".
The new EVIL cameras seems to have the advantages all the advantages of a DSLR, in a much smaller package.
They are new now, so they are expensive, but you can expect the prices of these cameras to go down once the other companies launch their EVILS. |
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Mr. Pink

Joined: 21 Oct 2003 Location: China
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Posted: Mon Jan 18, 2010 2:58 pm Post subject: |
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blackjack wrote: |
If you want the best of both worlds (as well as some of the disadvantages from both), get a compact with a super zoom. I have a canon sx200 12x zoom amazing photos in a slightly larger than compact size. I can't change lens and it's not as small as a true compact but it has an amazing lens and zoom with a lot of the manual controls.
I really recommend it |
This is the camera I use for day to day shots. I carry it around in my bag everywhere I go. I have taken some outstanding shots with it. The camera is IMO one of the best if not THE best point and shoot cameras that aren't shaped like mini-SLRs.
My brother bought this camera to try and was telling me he couldn't see the difference between it and his older Canon point and shoot. He was just too lazy to learn the features.
I recommend this camera to anyone looking for a great camera. For the price, it is hard to go wrong. |
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crossmr

Joined: 22 Nov 2008 Location: Hwayangdong, Seoul
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Posted: Mon Jan 18, 2010 5:03 pm Post subject: |
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I finally got a DSLR about 8 months ago. I've used SLRs for a long time, but but hadn't made the plunge into DSLR territory. Unlike most of this country I don't have a canon.
I started on my father's Pentax k1000 a long time ago and when I graduated high school I bought one and used it for quite a few years before digital cameras really got popular.
my point and shoot digital cameras were kodaks, but when I went DSLR I went back to Pentax. I got a Pentax K-M in Japan. Saved about 200,000W~ over buying it here in Korea. Since I'm a foreigner in both countries I got a tax discount there and didn't have to pay duty here. It is a Japanese brand so no import tax. Also lowered the price.
Quite happy with it. Yes, it is bulky. You really can't avoid it if you want a DSLR and want to actually use the flexibility you paid for. I think it is why most people with a DSLR keep a slim point and shoot for going to the bar/parties/etc
As mentioned it is important to learn how to use the camera, and to learn some basic photo editing. You can find tons of sites online that give classes or tutorials on various programs. I've started to learn lightroom a bit.
Starter stuff doesn't have to be ridiculous. I think between my body with 18-55 lens and a 70-300mm zoom, it was around.. hmm... $770 US~ give or take.
I've actually used the zoom at sporting events (even though it is a little slower zoom) and the pictures have turned out not bad. I'm sure they could benefit from a $1200 really fast zoom, but when you get started, choosing the $200 zoom is more than okay to get your feet wet. |
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blade
Joined: 30 Jun 2007
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