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Jeju, is it really so great?
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mikerankin27



Joined: 24 Apr 2010

PostPosted: Sun Apr 25, 2010 9:03 am    Post subject: Jeju, is it really so great? Reply with quote

hey yall, first post here

im hoping to get an EPIK job in Jeju and was wondering if its going to be a good fit...

im a recent grad. and really want to enjoy the outdoors while saving most of my money to pay off student loans.

How is the cost of living down there, much worse than Busan/Seoul? Is it too touristy?


thanks a bunch
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pangaea



Joined: 20 Dec 2007

PostPosted: Sun Apr 25, 2010 9:47 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

I lived there for 16 months. I didn't find it too touristy. In fact, I never really noticed the tourists that much at all. They do show up in late spring and summer. You will know them by their matching shirts.

There is quite a lot to do outdoors when the weather is nice. There is some nice hiking, several museums and parks to see, horseback riding, hang gliding, scuba diving, and lots of little festivals if you are into those. The Fire Festival is very popular and attracts people from all over Korea. You have your choice of several beaches but the water is really only warm enough to swim in starting in mid June and ending in August.

Winter on the island is another matter. It is way too cold outside and the main activity seems to be drinking, drinking and drinking. Whether you will save money is entirely up to you. Instead of hanging out at bars every weekend, maybe try to find people who want to go out to dinner or have dinner parties, movie nights, game nights, etc. If you are content to stay on the island all winter, I don't see why you couldn't save quite a bit of money. However, keep in mind it is an island. I was not prepared for the trapped, claw my eyes out, desperate boredom that hit me after several months of winter. I took several trips to Seoul just to keep from going crazy. A plane ticket off the island is around 150,000 won. Add that to the cost of a hotel room, transportation, food, and entertainment, and you could easily spend 1/4 of your paycheck for the month.

Long story short - great place in Spring and Summer, not so great in winter but life on the island is definitely what you make of it. I had a great time on Jeju and made a lot of good friends, but I don't think I want to live there again.

Oh, and be prepared for typhoons.
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hellofaniceguy



Joined: 10 Jan 2003
Location: On your computer screen!

PostPosted: Sun Apr 25, 2010 11:56 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

[quote="Oh, and be prepared for typhoons.[/quote]

When was the last typhoon that actually hit and caused serious damage to Jeju? As opposed to having damage done during a snow storm or rain storm.
Typhoons causing damage are rare on Jeju.
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mikerankin27



Joined: 24 Apr 2010

PostPosted: Sun Apr 25, 2010 5:26 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

sounds ok i guess... I hear theres a lot of ex-pats around, hopefully theyll be able to keep me entertained for a year. i figure that i do anything for a year right?

hellofanicguy: how does Jeju's cost of living compare to other cities?

im turning my app in tonight and excited, if anyone thinks they might be on the island give me a shout.

m
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KimchiExplosion



Joined: 01 Jul 2007
Location: Nowhere near Seoul

PostPosted: Sun Apr 25, 2010 5:27 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

pangaea wrote:
I didn't find it too touristy. In fact, I never really noticed the tourists that much at all. They do show up in late spring and summer. You will know them by their matching shirts.


How many of them were "real" international tourists? As in, not Korean and not ESL teachers? Do people really come from all over the world to see Jeju like most Koreans I've met are convinced they do?
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kprrok



Joined: 06 Apr 2004
Location: KC

PostPosted: Sun Apr 25, 2010 5:27 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

pangaea wrote:
Winter on the island is another matter. It is way too cold outside and the main activity seems to be drinking, drinking and drinking. Whether you will save money is entirely up to you. Instead of hanging out at bars every weekend, maybe try to find people who want to go out to dinner or have dinner parties, movie nights, game nights, etc. If you are content to stay on the island all winter, I don't see why you couldn't save quite a bit of money. However, keep in mind it is an island. I was not prepared for the trapped, claw my eyes out, desperate boredom that hit me after several months of winter. I took several trips to Seoul just to keep from going crazy. A plane ticket off the island is around 150,000 won. Add that to the cost of a hotel room, transportation, food, and entertainment, and you could easily spend 1/4 of your paycheck for the month.


Winter here is freakin' mild compared to the midwest where I grew up. Where are you from?

OP, I've been on Jeju for over 4 years and I love it here. I'll not consider anywhere else in Korea (unless I get a hella GREAT job offer). My family is very healthy here, no dirty (for Korea) air and clean water that can actually be had from the tap.

If you have any questions, you can pm me or e-mail me at kprrok @ gmail . com
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crisdean



Joined: 04 Feb 2010
Location: Seoul Special City

PostPosted: Sun Apr 25, 2010 5:49 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

kprrok wrote:
Winter here is freakin' mild compared to the midwest where I grew up. Where are you from?

I love the discussions on winter in Korea, and its seems there are two types of foreign teachers, those who think winter is so cold, and those who question whether it can even be called winter. I personally have only seen one winter day in my two winters (07-08 Gimpo, 08-09 Goyang) in Korea, and that was in Chuncheon (same day in Seoul I wouldn't have called it winter). I guess there was supposed to a couple of days this year in Seoul while I was in Canada, but it comes from unreliable sources (South Africans, who always seem to think it's cold here)

Anyways my point is if your going to make a subjective comment like that, at least do what kprrok has done, INCLUDE A COMPARISON.

I wasted so much luggage space my first year on winter clothes I never wore because of comments I read about how cold Korean winter was. And I sure others from warmer climates have come completely unprepared due to me and my fellow Canadians saying there is no winter to speak of in Korea.
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mikerankin27



Joined: 24 Apr 2010

PostPosted: Sun Apr 25, 2010 7:58 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

yea, ive been going to school in Ohio, Midwest of the US.. so the winters shouldnt be too big of a deal. it shouldnt get below freezing out there


im super psyched, thanks for the help guys!
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kprrok



Joined: 06 Apr 2004
Location: KC

PostPosted: Sun Apr 25, 2010 9:58 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

I forgot to include this earlier, but there are budget airlines (Jeju Air, Jin Air, Eastar) which fly you to Seoul for under 50,000 each way. Sometimes, at the right times (normally the wrong times for you) you can get them as low as 30,000.

You can get to the mainland if you want, but I haven't found a need yet.
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air76



Joined: 13 Nov 2007

PostPosted: Sun Apr 25, 2010 11:35 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

crisdean wrote:
kprrok wrote:
Winter here is freakin' mild compared to the midwest where I grew up. Where are you from?

I love the discussions on winter in Korea, and its seems there are two types of foreign teachers, those who think winter is so cold, and those who question whether it can even be called winter. I personally have only seen one winter day in my two winters (07-08 Gimpo, 08-09 Goyang) in Korea, and that was in Chuncheon (same day in Seoul I wouldn't have called it winter). I guess there was supposed to a couple of days this year in Seoul while I was in Canada, but it comes from unreliable sources (South Africans, who always seem to think it's cold here)

Anyways my point is if your going to make a subjective comment like that, at least do what kprrok has done, INCLUDE A COMPARISON.

I wasted so much luggage space my first year on winter clothes I never wore because of comments I read about how cold Korean winter was. And I sure others from warmer climates have come completely unprepared due to me and my fellow Canadians saying there is no winter to speak of in Korea.


Just because it is cold-ER elsewhere doesn't mean that it isn't cold in Korea in the winter. I don't care where you're from in the world, if it is below 0 degrees and snowing, it's cold. There were certainly 30-40 days at least when the temperature dropped below zero and there was snow on the ground where we live. I have been colder places, yes, but there weren't Canadians running around in shorts and t-shirts either.

People like to rant on and on "oh, -3 is nothing, it's minus 30 in Calgary (or Chicago or wherever)"....but these people are still wearing a winter coat and stocking cap, so it must not be THAT warm for them.
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schlotzy



Joined: 10 Mar 2010
Location: South Korea

PostPosted: Mon Apr 26, 2010 1:34 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Jeju's a pretty cool place to be from what I've seen. However, it's definitely not like Hawaii..haha. And as an above poster said, basically all of the tourists there are from other areas of Korea and a few from neighbouring Asian countries. Don't expect to go there and see 1000s of American tourists or something like that.
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crisdean



Joined: 04 Feb 2010
Location: Seoul Special City

PostPosted: Mon Apr 26, 2010 3:23 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

air76 wrote:
Just because it is cold-ER elsewhere doesn't mean that it isn't cold in Korea in the winter. I don't care where you're from in the world, if it is below 0 degrees and snowing, it's cold. There were certainly 30-40 days at least when the temperature dropped below zero and there was snow on the ground where we live. I have been colder places, yes, but there weren't Canadians running around in shorts and t-shirts either.

People like to rant on and on "oh, -3 is nothing, it's minus 30 in Calgary (or Chicago or wherever)"....but these people are still wearing a winter coat and stocking cap, so it must not be THAT warm for them.


When you've been out and about on days of -40 then -3 is nothing, and for the record, I've never had to wear anything beyond a denim jacket over a T-shirt in this country, which is pretty much what I'll wear on all but the hottest and most humid days here. I don't bust out the sweaters or winter coats 'til at least -15. And what is God's name is a stocking cap? I guessing maybe a tuque or beanie? Can't say I ever wear them, even back home, makes my head too warm.
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Tundra_Creature



Joined: 11 Jun 2009
Location: Canada

PostPosted: Mon Apr 26, 2010 4:29 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

KimchiExplosion wrote:
pangaea wrote:
I didn't find it too touristy. In fact, I never really noticed the tourists that much at all. They do show up in late spring and summer. You will know them by their matching shirts.


How many of them were "real" international tourists? As in, not Korean and not ESL teachers? Do people really come from all over the world to see Jeju like most Koreans I've met are convinced they do?


I went there with my mom to go and visit for a few days during the winter. I saw some people from neighbouring Asian countries, and then a few people from Europe staying the same hotel as me, but I doubt that there's millions of tourists from the west coming around.

Still, a really nice place to check out. I really liked it and would go back. Cleaner air than Seoul, that's for sure and if you reall like tangerines and oranges, then you've hit the jackpot.

As for weather, I found the winter to be pretty damn mild compared to the rest of the country. Not warm enough to swim, cold enough to wear a small jacket. Either way, much much warmer than my hometown, but I would've loved to have gone during the spring or summer for some swimming.
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pangaea



Joined: 20 Dec 2007

PostPosted: Mon Apr 26, 2010 9:52 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

hellofaniceguywrote:

Quote:
When was the last typhoon that actually hit and caused serious damage to Jeju? As opposed to having damage done during a snow storm or rain storm.
Typhoons causing damage are rare on Jeju.


2007 when Typhoon Nari hit the island. I lived there then. Several people were killed and and there was wind damage and flooding all over the island.

http://joongangdaily.joins.com/article/view.asp?aid=2880582

kprrok wrote:

Quote:
Winter here is freakin' mild compared to the midwest where I grew up. Where are you from?

OP, I've been on Jeju for over 4 years and I love it here. I'll not consider anywhere else in Korea (unless I get a hella GREAT job offer). My family is very healthy here, no dirty (for Korea) air and clean water that can actually be had from the tap.


Just because it's not as cold as where you grew up doesn't mean it's not cold. The weather on Jeju may be milder in the winter than Seoul, but it doesn't mean everyone is out playing badminton in their shorts. No matter where you are from below freezing is cold. Seriously, does it have to turn into an argument everytime someone says it gets cold in Korea?

Tundra wrote:

Quote:
As for weather, I found the winter to be pretty damn mild compared to the rest of the country. Not warm enough to swim, cold enough to wear a small jacket. Either way, much much warmer than my hometown, but I would've loved to have gone during the spring or summer for some swimming.


You are doing people a disservice if you tell them they only need a light jacket for winter on Jeju.

OP, unless you are a polar bear, you will need to have a winter coat, hat, scarf, and gloves. There may be no or insufficient heat in your school during the winter also, which is an issue in a lot of schools in Korea, judging from the posts on this forum during the cold months. Throughout the winter, I had to wear my coat and sometimes gloves inside the school, as did my students.

That being said I never said Jeju is not a nice place to live. The air is cleaner than other parts of Korea and the scenery is beautiful. I know there are people who have lived on the island long term and don't want to go anywhere else. I also know there are people who have lived on the island for a year or two and choose to go elsewhere. It all depends on personal choice.

As for living expenses, I don't think they are all that different from expenses on the mainland. You won't find a great selection of Western items on the island but the ones you do find will be expensive. I think those items are just as expensive anywhere else in Korea, but I could be wrong.

The tourists you will see will mainly be Koreans on vacation. A lot of newlyweds come to Jeju for their honeymoon so you will probably see them around wearing their "couple" shirts. Smile
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VanIslander



Joined: 18 Aug 2003
Location: Geoje, Hadong, Tongyeong,... now in a small coastal island town outside Gyeongsangnamdo!

PostPosted: Mon Apr 26, 2010 11:22 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

over 8 million visits are made to Jeju every year, made up of Koreans, the Japanese and Chinese

there is plenty of great outdoors within minutes in every direction from any place on the island, requiring a mere bicycle, though a scooter or car is best to take advantage of all the island offers

the winters are milder than Vancouver Island, West Coast Canada; the pipes never freeze, zero degrees celsius is rare, a typical winter day oscillates between 10 and 12 C in the afternoon and 6 and 4 C at night; when it rains in January and February the overnight lows warm up to about 12 C, making a winter jacket uncomfortably warm to wear; the dampness of the humidity combined with the famous Jeju winds makes a 5 C winter day feel like minus-10 C; the only people I've heard *beep* about Jeju cold winters were from California and South Africa.

jeju is a charming place in december and new year's, with lush greenery everywhere, tangerines and other orange citrus fruits hanging ripe ready to be picked, chinook-style warm winds from the south, and killer scenery both coastal and mountainside; there is no grey, brown wintery dreary SAD syndrome conditions so typical of large parts of the mainland

there are plenty of fellow expats around and tons of non-drinking fun to be had, in fact, more to do and friendlier people to do them with than back home; people regularly get together to play frisbee, chess, hike, cycle, survivor paintball, go to the beach, bbq, to name just a few I've found easy to join in on, making friends along the way, really no shortage of things to do and people willing to do it if you are outgoing

there is air pollution on Jeju, above average amounts of ozone from China (nitrogen oxides, volatile organic compounds and other chemicals mix with sunlight to create three-atom oxygen compounds that are unhealthy to breathe, but it's odorless though detectable by the national pollution monitoring system http://www.airkorea.or.kr/ but the amount of particulates in the air is less than elsewhere in Korea, and there's a helluva lot less domestically produced pollution (NO2 and smoke - the mainland factories, cars and farmer fires produce a toxic mix absent on Jeju)

there are plane tickets to Seoul from Jeju in the 50,000 won return range, and there's no reason to pay more than 80,000 won unless you leave things to the last minute during the busy season of summer

i've met a lot of expats who have been living on Jeju FOR YEARS, I'd say that easily over one-third of the hundred-plus I've chatted with personally have re-signed here or sought out other positions to stay on the island; I've met just two who criticize the place in any way, one of them having spent nearly a decade in Seoul and heading back there after contract, and the other trapped by marriage and kids with a local lass and pines to return to his home country
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